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South Butte - Gila River - 8 members in 15 triplogs have rated this an average 3.6 ( 1 to 5 best )
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Jan 18 2025
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 Guides 94
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52 male
 Joined Sep 18 2002
 Tempe, AZ
South Donnelly, AZ 
South Donnelly, AZ
 
Hiking avatar Jan 18 2025
chumleyTriplogs 1,993
Hiking6.32 Miles 2,118 AEG
Hiking6.32 Miles   5 Hrs   35 Mns   1.37 mph
2,118 ft AEG      59 Mns Break
 no routes
1st trip
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patrickakabird
This is such an enjoyable area with beautiful and unique geology. It had been a few years since my last visit, and it turned out to be an ideal day to head this way again. Did a circumference of the top of the butte, and enjoyed views down on the tracks as the train passed by as well as a couple of groups of Jeeps down below.

Over on Donnelly, I took us along the scenic crest before finding a route down off the mesa and across to a new area for me. This was a highlight with more amazing geology, along with an encounter with a fox and a sixpack of sheep.

:y:
 Named place
 Named place [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  North Butte  South Butte
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Apr 06 2024
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female
 Joined May 20 2016
 AZ
South Butte - Gila RiverGlobe, AZ
Globe, AZ
Hiking avatar Apr 06 2024
WildForAZTriplogs 20
Hiking6.29 Miles 2,157 AEG
Hiking6.29 Miles   5 Hrs   30 Mns   1.14 mph
2,157 ft AEG
 
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With the cooler temperature in the 60s, I figured it was a great day to hike in the lower desert. I've been in this area several times, but this would be my first time to South Butte. I don't think many people do this summit or even hike around this area, which mostly attracts off-road enthusiasts.

I drove east along the Florence-Kelvin Highway and then made a left on Cochran Rd. I parked near a windmill off the side of Cochran Rd. at a big parking area (33.07402, -111.16136). Other than a few places with deep sand (which wasn't enough for me to have to use 4WD), Cochran Rd. was a breeze to drive on. It had shockingly minimal traffic as well - I only passed by one oncoming group of OHVs on the way in, and nobody on the way out. There were a lot of campers parked along Cochran Rd. though.

For the first mile of the hike, I followed along a dirt road that was quite sandy in places. The rest of the hike was all off-trail except for one-tenth of a mile along Donnelly Wash. As I headed toward Donnelly Wash, I veered off my planned route by going up to a small peak and nearby rock shelter just to see if there were any signs of the ancients. I found none, but later I did notice a handful of rock walls on top of South Butte.

Several ATVers drove along Donnelly Wash throughout the day, but none were around when I walked in it. From that wash, I used the HAZ official route to the summit of South Butte. The butte looked intimidating from the wash with its steep, vertical walls and cliffs encircling a large portion of the perimeter. But following the official route, I never feared for my safety while climbing up. I did use my hands a few times on some short, sloping rock walls here & there. Went through a neat, long, narrow crack along the way. Route finding wasn't easy due to not having any visibility above the many rock formations, and I was constantly consulting my GPS to make sure I was on the route.

When reaching the top of the butte, there is still about a half mile remaining to get to the benchmark on the other end. There are lots of rocks (and today a lot of deep, grassy vegetation). When I stepped up on a large boulder that was among a pile of boulders, I spooked something underneath the pile. It sounded a bit large, and I could hear it moving and making progress along its escape route. I stood there watching and waiting. After a few seconds and about seven feet away, a turkey vulture came out. It looked at me and then quickly took flight. A couple seconds later, a second one came out. So cool - I wish I had my video going.

After the guilt of scaring the vultures, I headed over to the benchmark. It was easy to find, just a few steps away from a gigantic cairn. I assumed the register was inside the cairn, but several large wasps were claiming ownership of it and intimidating me, so I didn't poke around. After taking in the views, I walked over to the cliffed-out south edge. The vast spread of light brown and cream-colored bedrock down below looked amazing. I made a mental note of that area to put it on my to-do list :)

I saw two coyotes crossing the Florence-Kelvin Highway while driving to the hike. Along Cochran Rd. I saw three ground squirrels, a regular squirrel, chipmunk, rabbit and lots of birds. When driving back, I was just about to sneeze when a deer ran across Florence-Kelvin Highway right in front of me. Thankfully there was no collision. My sneeze never happened but involuntarily turned into a brief, weird-sounding scream :o
 Fauna
 Fauna [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Blister Beetle
 Culture
 Culture [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Benchmark
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Moderate
The two most popular flowers of the day were Owl Clover and Lupine. Also saw Brittlebush, Scorpion Weed, Desert Chicory, Fiddleneck, and many others.
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Feb 12 2024
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53 male
 Joined Dec 30 2005
 Tucson, AZ
South Butte - Gila RiverGlobe, AZ
Globe, AZ
Hiking avatar Feb 12 2024
Mike_WTriplogs 528
Hiking6.30 Miles 2,129 AEG
Hiking6.30 Miles   3 Hrs   55 Mns   1.61 mph
2,129 ft AEG
 
1st trip
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First of all this was a very enjoyable hike! I noticed there was an old railroad bridge crossing the Gila river, so in theory, it was possible to do both the North Butte and South Butte summits in one day, but I didn't arrive until after 10 am and there just wasn't enough time. Furthermore, the route to summit North Butte from South Butte, apparently is quite brushy, steep, and since I've never hiked it, I didn't think it would be a good idea to start this at 3 pm.

I drove further down the wash than I planned on because I wanted to find a good place to park away from the other tracks and away from any sandy areas. From where I parked, I started heading South and Southwest down the wash. After 1/3 of a mile I saw a wash on the right which I thought would be a good place to enter. Looking up at the South Butte, it was all steep cliffs on the East side. I walked up the canyon until I hiked a total of 1/2 mile. I saw a side channel going left that looked a bit steep but safe enough. I ended up taking this route. After several days of rain this area was a bit wet and I just stayed in the dry areas as much as possible. There was some exposure here so I just took my time. If I ran into cliffs, my plan was to go back to the main canyon which was East of this side canyon and look for another route up. In the canyon, I saw an animal jump out of a bush that was about 15 feet away from me. It didn't run away at first. It just stared at me but the damn bush was in the way so I didn't get a real clear look at it. But, I believe it was a small ringtail cat. It eventually ran down the canyon and I didn't see it again. Anyway, everything worked out OK and I made it to a flatter area. I ended up West of the saddle about 100-200 feet above the low point.

From here, I looked up and saw a lot of rock formations. It was difficult to know where to go but I found a route on HikeArizona.com which I used as a general guideline. I found some cairns higher up most of which were helpful, but there were not enough cairns. When I got higher up it was hard to know which way to go. I ended up changing my direction several times because it wasn't obvious which direction the summit was until the very last few minutes. Overall, the route finding on this hike was definitely a challenge.

At the summit, there was a 5 foot tall rock structure and I found a registry inside which could be accessed by moving just one rock. From the summit I could look down and see the Gila river with a lot of water flowing. Looking North I could see the North Butte. Looking Northeast I could see the snow covered Pinal mountains in the distance.

On the way down I hit a dead end near a cliff so I needed to hike partway back up and look for a better route down. I eventually found one. It actually look me longer to descend because of this reason. Maybe about 1/2 mile from the summit coming down, I saw 3 or 4 javelina coming up. I thought it's quite amazing that they made it up there because the route finding was so challenging. I noticed more cairns on the way down because I felt that I needed them more on the way down, especially considering that there were some wet and potentially slippery areas. This time I descended all the way down to the saddle and stayed further East, zig-zagging and staying more on the ridgeline rather than in the canyon. This was an easier and better route. When I got back to the canyon I hiked North and Northeast back to where I parked my truck. I had some extra time so I thought I would explore the old railroad bridge crossing the Gila river.

I don't believe this railroad bridge or track is used any longer. By the look of it, it had to be 100+ years old. In my head, I signed my own waiver and walked across the bridge. I could tell the wooden ties were quite old and I took care walking across. Once across I saw a tunnel that was blasted through the rock up ahead and an old rusted train car that was de-railed. I couldn't find any dates engraved on anything.

I decided that I would walk into the tunnel just until it got too dark, then walk back out. After walking in a few hundred feet it was quite dark but I noticed a light up ahead, so I knew I was about halfway through. I kept going and made it to the other side. I'm sure this was the first time I ever walked through a railroad tunnel before. If a train did come, which was highly unlikely, there was enough room on the side of the tracks to be safe. After crossing through the tunnel, I looked North to see if I could see North Butte, but all I found were some messy canyons and steep cliffs. It was already after 3:30 pm by this time. I decided I didn't have enough time to explore around looking for a route up. I turned around and hiked back to where I parked. Along the way, I saw about 5 cattle in the wash which ran away from me and went over to the Gila River. When I caught up to them again, they bolted into the hills and ran South down the wash. On my drive out, I believe I saw the same cattle 3 miles away. It's hard to believe they made it that far that fast, or maybe they were different cattle...

Driving directions: (4x4 only to where I drove in) Take AZ-79 to E. Cactus Forest Rd and drive East. After 3/4 mile turn left going North on N. Diffin Rd. Continue for 3 miles and then turn right on E. Florence-Kelvin Highway. Continue for 12.7 miles and take your next left on Cochran Rd. It's all paved until this point and once you're on Cochran Rd it turns to a well-graded dirt road. Continue for 5.8 miles and take a left at Donnelly Wash. At Donnelly Wash it can get quite sandy and this is where you'll need 4 wheel drive and high clearance. I had my 4x4 on the entire time and made it fine. There were a few spots where the sand was a bit deep and my truck swayed a bit. I just kept the speed up above 10 MPH in these areas. There are a few branches but the tracks all seem to converge to the same place. Take whichever branch looks best. Continue in the wash for 3.0 to 3.2 miles and park anywhere on higher ground where it's not so sandy. You may see free range cattle and javelina in this wash. Be careful driving in washes during wet periods. Flash flooding is definitely possible at certain times of the year.

Stats: (includes exploration of Gila River, old railroad bridge, old de-railed train car, tunnel, etc.)
-------
Distance (round trip) = 6.3 miles
AEG = 2,129 feet
Strava moving time = 3 hrs 20 mins
Strava elapsed time = 6 hrs 27 mins
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Michael Williams
IT Professional
Rocky Point Vacation Rentals
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Jan 01 2021
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52 male
 Joined Sep 18 2002
 Tempe, AZ
South Butte - Gila RiverGlobe, AZ
Globe, AZ
Hiking avatar Jan 01 2021
chumleyTriplogs 1,993
Hiking2.33 Miles 400 AEG
Hiking2.33 Miles
400 ft AEG
 
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After a quick breakfast, started off the day right with a short climb for good views. After a break, headed back down and over to explore the nearby highlights. It wasn't until after noon that it turned into an OHV mecca, which prompted our abrupt departure and relieved sanctuary at AZW.
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Nov 14 2018
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74 male
 Joined Feb 12 2002
 Gold Canyon, AZ
South Butte - Gila RiverGlobe, AZ
Globe, AZ
Hiking avatar Nov 14 2018
AZLOT69Triplogs 2,215
Hiking1.90 Miles 1,247 AEG
Hiking1.90 Miles
1,247 ft AEG
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Very cool, very windy up top. enjoyable day to share with the tarantulas. No one else around today.
_____________________
It's best for a man to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open his mouth and remove all doubt.
--Mark Twain
 
Jan 01 2018
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 Guides 94
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 Triplogs 1,993

52 male
 Joined Sep 18 2002
 Tempe, AZ
South Butte - Gila RiverGlobe, AZ
Globe, AZ
Hiking avatar Jan 01 2018
chumleyTriplogs 1,993
Hiking2.23 Miles 1,219 AEG
Hiking2.23 Miles   2 Hrs   9 Mns   1.34 mph
1,219 ft AEG      29 Mns Break
 
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John9L
With air quality looking pretty bad in the valley, I decided this one would make a good New Years Day peak. We were rewarded with great views in all directions, a cool breeze up top, complete solitude, and a surprising number of signs of previous habitation (almost so much as to pique even my interest!!)

Hit the trestle after getting back down, surprised to see as much flow in the Gila as there is, especially with none of it being diverted into the canals between here and Florence.
 Named place
 Named place [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Donnelly Wash
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I'm not sure what my spirit animal is, but I'm confident it has rabies.
 
Feb 23 2013
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69 male
 Joined Jan 20 2009
 Far NE Phoenix,
North Butte-South Butte Loop, AZ 
North Butte-South Butte Loop, AZ
 
Hiking avatar Feb 23 2013
The_EagleTriplogs 2,760
Hiking15.30 Miles 3,840 AEG
Hiking15.30 Miles   9 Hrs   59 Mns   1.80 mph
3,840 ft AEG   1 Hour   30 Mns Break17 LBS Pack
 
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johnlp
JuanJaimeiii
Nice Plan B hike.

Had seen these Buttes from the AZT and always wanted to explore.

Started out cold and the forecast 5-7 mph winds were closer to 25-27 mph.

Scrambled/Boulder hopped up North Butte to some excellent 360 views of the area, including our next climb, South Butte. Decided to find a route off the East side of North Butte, and after one false start, found a manageable route down.

The Wash / Canyon we choose as a route to the Gila panned out, with only one place we had to climb out of the canyon around an obstruction. Now we were on our way across the river and to South Butte.

There was actually a use trail for the easy part of this track. Then it was some more climbing, to the peak, where we had some lunch.

After much deliberation, we picked a route back, that would get us wet crossing the Gila. Turned out to be no big deal where we crossed, the water only being calf high.

Great day with a bunch of goofs...

Video Summary ===> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcjLXgkFW8w

Thanks for driving down there JJ and for introducing me to the Pink Flamingo's
 Fauna
 Fauna [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  Teva
 Named place
 Named place [ checklist ]
[ checklist ]  South Butte
wildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observationwildflower observation
Wildflowers Observation Light

dry Box Canyon Dry Dry

dry Box O Wash Dry Dry

dry Donnelly Wash Dry Dry

dry Martinez Canyon Dry Dry
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Feb 23 2013
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 Guides 1
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68 male
 Joined Mar 16 2008
 chandler,az
North Butte-South Butte Loop, AZ 
North Butte-South Butte Loop, AZ
 
Hiking avatar Feb 23 2013
johnlpTriplogs 5,208
Hiking15.30 Miles 3,840 AEG
Hiking15.30 Miles   9 Hrs   59 Mns   1.80 mph
3,840 ft AEG   1 Hour   30 Mns Break
 no routesno photosets
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The_Eagle
Bruce always comes up with interesting routes to places I haven't been, so joining the trek isn't a tough decision. Tremendous views from both buttes. Wildflowers are coming out nicely. Wet feet four trips in a row with these guys. Excellent company. Waiting for the movie review. Thanks for driving JJ.
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Feb 23 2013
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58 male
 Joined Jan 30 2011
 Chandler, AZ
North Butte-South Butte Loop, AZ 
North Butte-South Butte Loop, AZ
 
Hiking avatar Feb 23 2013
JuanJaimeiiiTriplogs 2,400
Hiking15.30 Miles 3,840 AEG
Hiking15.30 Miles   9 Hrs   59 Mns   1.80 mph
3,840 ft AEG   1 Hour   30 Mns Break
 no routesno photosets
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The_Eagle
Bruce put together a winner, although it would have been a little better had it included the Coke Ovens. Oh well just another excuse for me to go back and explore this great area some more.

Both North Butte and South Butte had killer views and the overall hike was a blast! It's always fun hiking with these guys. Good laughs and good times. Thanks for the invite Bruce and I hope you enjoy your Chrismas present. :o
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Feb 23 2013
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55 male
 Joined Nov 20 1996
 
North Butte-South Butte Loop, AZ 
North Butte-South Butte Loop, AZ
 
Hiking avatar Feb 23 2013
joebartelsTriplogs 5,894
Hiking14.65 Miles 4,275 AEG
Hiking14.65 Miles   10 Hrs      1.60 mph
4,275 ft AEG      50 Mns Break12 LBS Pack
 
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The_Eagle
The Eagle threw together two short hikes I did back in the summer of 2005. Pink Louie and JJ Spicy Snack joined in on the adventure. Each butte has it's own highlights. North Butte feels less traveled. Our ascent was cold and windy. The views at the southern tip were not "as" great as I recalled but figure the weather played into it.

We looked for a route down the east and tracked north in doing so. These views were awesome. The descent wasn't too difficult into a magnificent unnamed? ravine. This creek/canyon etches all the way back to White Canyon Wilderness. Definitely explore-worthy and easy to follow up.

JJ spotted a ramp etched on the east side of North Butte. I ended up getting suckered into the near death trap. Going up was a blast! It turned out to be 3 to 15? feet wide. Right after I passed a questionable spot halfway up the ramp JJ dislodged a rock which sounded like a machine gun for four seconds taking out a small army. As inviting as it looked my nerves went from rock solid to soup in 2.2 seconds.

Turned around and realized it was kinna steep. Did I mention the crumbly rock. Gravel would have been more inviting, at least it doesn't appear solid. What took me a second to go up took ten minutes to figure out going down. The rest was just steep as heck. It was the highlight of my day... whew

Donnelly is still loaded with sand. South Butte is a maze ing.

We took the chain-gang route back. Through the mesquites, forged the mighty Gila and hobo'd the tracks back to Switzerland.
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[ checklist ]  Railroad Right-of-Way
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Mexican popies covered a couple small slopes. Smaller in size compared to a bumper crop year starting in January. A few itty bitty lupines are making an appearance. Might be pretty nice out here for the next month!

dry Donnelly Wash Dry Dry
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Jun 14 2012
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75 male
 Joined May 04 2004
 Mesa, AZ
South Butte - Gila RiverGlobe, AZ
Globe, AZ
Hiking avatar Jun 14 2012
CannondaleKidTriplogs 2,411
Hiking2.40 Miles 1,268 AEG
Hiking2.40 Miles   2 Hrs   24 Mns   1.35 mph
1,268 ft AEG      37 Mns Break20 LBS Pack
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I had planned South Butte as the last of four peaks I'd summit today, the first two making it a clean sweep for me to have reached the summit of all the 'listed' peaks in the Grayback Quandrangle. (By listed I mean peaks in the Lists Of John that tracks the major peaks of every state.)

However, as I drove closer to the planned peak #3 and noted the steepness and exposure it presented, I realized I needed more preparation before attempting it. Already at 101 degrees it was high time to get going over to South Butte.

As hot as it was I didn't let it slow me down and even with some dawdling and backtracking I reached the summit in just under and hour when the temperature reached 105. Thanks to my 'heat acclimation' hiking and biking over the last few weeks I hardly noticed the heat. Sure I sweated a lot and kept drinking along the way, yet I didn't go through a quart of Gatorade on this hike, the third summit of the day.

After reaching the summit I peeled off both my white long-sleeve shirt and wicking short-sleeve shirt, swung them around for a minute or so and put them back on. The evaporation had cooled them off so much I actually shivered for a few moments as the wind whipped by. A weird but great feeling.

I spent some time reading the notes in the summit log, noting the entry Joe made back in September 2005... 100 degrees at 12 noon. Not too far off my 105 and 12:30 pm.

During my time at the summit nine turkey vultures gathered to circle as a group in anticipation of my demise. By time I thought of taking a photo of them sometimes barely 30' above me and got my camera out they seemed to become camera-shy and all I got in the photo as they quickly dispersed was five. My satisfaction was cheating them of their expectations.

Just about every direction there were fabulous views, particularly of the Gila River lowlands and of Donnelly Slope to the south. While taking a number of shots of the Donnelly Slope area I noticed faint signs of a road across from east-to-west so decided to check it out after the descent. Afterward I did just that, driving the sometime bare-rock but very rough old track all the way across. On this drive I took a photo up to a gap that I had taken a photo when I was up there earlier. Although slow through this part, it did turn out to be a short-cut back to the Florence-Kelvin Highway, saving me the long drive south out of Donnelly Wash.

I posted 25 photos on HAZ, the full set of 36 photos is here:
http://changephoenix.com/jpserver/web/public/album.php?id=135
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Oct 08 2011
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52 male
 Joined Sep 18 2002
 Tempe, AZ
Cochran-Gila River, AZ 
Cochran-Gila River, AZ
 
4x4 Trip avatar Oct 08 2011
chumleyTriplogs 1,993
4x4 Trip
4x4 Trip   6 Hrs      0.00 mph
 no routes
1st trip
It had been a while since I had visited the area and I decided to spend an afternoon exploring. The Gila is basically dry except for a few puddles. Some places could be crossed in a Prius. Others had big puddles or deep mud. The crossing at Cochran looked a bit treacherous, but from the railroad bridge I think any capable truck could have driven the river bottom all the way to Florence.

Curiosity got the best of me and I looked into the railroad. It's the Copper Basin Railway and runs from Winkelman to Magma. It's owned by the mining company and apparently runs a train one way once on most weekdays, but not on weekends. I don't know how fast it goes, but the tunnel is curved, so if you should illegally find yourself somewhere in the middle of the 630 feet, you wouldn't have a view of any oncoming trains. :o Just sayin.

I didn't venture across to the Coke Ovens this time, cause I've seen them enough times. But it's only about a 15-minute hike and is very easy if the river is dry like now.

Closer to Florence, the Hayden-Ashurst Diversion Dam is undergoing construction, in a 20-year project to line all the canals it feeds with concrete. Incidentally, it looks like it couldn't really hold any water to begin with, but I'm definitely no dam engineer, so don't ask me if 2 feet of sheet metal and some sticks can hold back a river!
foliage observationfoliage observationfoliage observationfoliage observationfoliage observation
Autumn Foliage Observation Isolated
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I'm not sure what my spirit animal is, but I'm confident it has rabies.
 
Dec 30 2009
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 Guides 177
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74 male
 Joined Feb 12 2002
 Gold Canyon, AZ
South Butte - Gila RiverGlobe, AZ
Globe, AZ
Hiking avatar Dec 30 2009
AZLOT69Triplogs 2,215
Hiking3.40 Miles 1,130 AEG
Hiking3.40 Miles   2 Hrs      1.70 mph
1,130 ft AEG
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Did an interesting alternative to this today including checking out a neat cave on the south side of the butte.
_____________________
It's best for a man to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open his mouth and remove all doubt.
--Mark Twain
 
Dec 17 2009
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 Guides 177
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74 male
 Joined Feb 12 2002
 Gold Canyon, AZ
South Butte - Gila RiverGlobe, AZ
Globe, AZ
Hiking avatar Dec 17 2009
AZLOT69Triplogs 2,215
Hiking3.00 Miles 1,130 AEG
Hiking3.00 Miles   2 Hrs      1.50 mph
1,130 ft AEG
 
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Perhaps I'm starting a new tradition. Almost a year to date when I did this last. I like this area. Saw no one except my partner today. A challenging and fun climb.
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It's best for a man to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open his mouth and remove all doubt.
--Mark Twain
 
Dec 20 2008
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 Guides 177
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74 male
 Joined Feb 12 2002
 Gold Canyon, AZ
South Butte - Gila RiverGlobe, AZ
Globe, AZ
Hiking avatar Dec 20 2008
AZLOT69Triplogs 2,215
Hiking3.00 Miles 1,130 AEG
Hiking3.00 Miles   3 Hrs      1.00 mph
1,130 ft AEG
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This was a perfect selection for next to the shortest day of the year. Nice difficulty-tests your route finding skills because there is no trail, and maybe 4 cairns, including the monster at the peak. Glad I had SPOT, if you took a tumble here, good chance you would be a skeleton next time someone came along. A very enjoyable day.
 Fauna
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[ checklist ]  Mule Deer
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Autumn Foliage Observation Light
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Wildflowers Observation Isolated
_____________________
It's best for a man to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open his mouth and remove all doubt.
--Mark Twain
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average hiking speed 1.5 mph

WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.

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