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| | Granite Park Chalet to Swiftcurrent Trailhead, MT | | | |
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Granite Park Chalet to Swiftcurrent Trailhead, MT
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| Hiking | 8.02 Miles |
717 AEG |
| | Hiking | 8.02 Miles | 5 Hrs 28 Mns | | 1.63 mph |
| 717 ft AEG | 33 Mns Break | | | |
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| partners | | Swiftcurrent Trail/Continental Divide Trail (CDT)
Alas, it was time to part ways with the Granite Park Chalet. We took some last pictures and then stopped to visit with Margaret, the Chalet Host. We told her we had enjoyed the Backslope Brewery in Columbia Falls where she works when the Chalet is not open. She and Wendy also had the same sunglasses holder. She told us a little more about her work at the Chalet and how much she likes it. She's been there for three years I think. She was a boat captain on Two Medicine Lake previous to that. I think she is originally from Wisconsin as were a few of the other employees of the Chalet.
So UP the Pass we go. Our packs were a little heavier and it seemed a bit humid but we made pretty decent time. From there it's pretty much downhill for three miles but first Wendy wanted to take a side trip to the Overlook we had stopped at in 2011. I didn't realize that as we hiked by the turn off. So we found another spot which is where we cliffed out in 2011 as the area was covered in snow. Wendy was also fixing something in her pack so we lingered for a bit. I watched a chipmunk/squirrel over in the distance.
And once back on the trail, we got side-tracked looking at a little meadow being exposed by a snowfield that now had a little waterfall into it. You hike through a small fir tree area until you wrap around to the side of the mountain above this middle part of the Swiftcurrent Valley. And then, boom, there you are on the bare edge of the mountain before it makes the first switchback. Your view is of all the lakes below and despite the slightly smokey conditions, it was still quite the sight. We continued our hike until the area where we remember we could see the large snowfield in the distance that covered the waterfall of Swiftcurrent Creek that we crossed in 2011. That would not be an issue this year. We wrapped our way to just below and over the little waterfall. There was still a bit of a snowbank protecting part of this area. We lingered here just for a minute remembering the terrifying moments we had crossing the snowfield knowing there was water below.
From here you hike along very high switchbacks with a view for only a short time down to Windmaker Lake as you make your way around the Devil's Elbow toward one of the larger waterfalls coming at you from above. I just read the reason they call it the Devil's Elbow is that horses were ridden back in the day so it was a little tricky. As a hiker, it's really not that big of deal except that you can't quite see the turn at the top. After another brief moment admiring the water falls we continued our trek down encountering hikers here and there. Most were just hiking for the day and not to the Pass. There is this one area that gives you a spectacular view of the valley and all the lakes so there were several folks having a snack/lunch here. It would be about the four mile mark coming or going.
Now we were getting into the valley still utilizing these sweeping switchbacks where you have the headwall or the lakes in view and wildflowers scattered about from time to time. I also read recently that the fire of 1936 destroyed most everything in this valley and that is why you see very few trees. http://www.glacierparkfoundation.org/Hi ... storm.html
Tuesday, September 1: 4:00 am: Telegram to NPS Director: "Most disastrous fire in Glacier Park History resulted from yesterday's wind storm fire crossed swiftcurrent pass burned down Swiftcurrent valley destroyed everything there except many glacier hotel. Wednesday, September 2: 10:30 pm: "Moderate general rains have greatly improved fire situation approximately 300 men will be released tomorrow also about two thirds of forest service overhead from this region stop In the Many Glacier area the Swiftcurrent Valley was absolutely denuded of all trees and practically all other vegetation.
And now it makes sense why the Valley here is so baron except for the undergrowth.
It seems to take longer than it should to actually reach the Valley floor. You cross the creek where all the water flows from the several waterfalls of the Swiftcurrent Glacier. It soon becomes apparent that the creek is not flowing in its normal pattern as the second bridge is no longer there and instead, you wander a tad looking for the next crossing as the path is not evident. They took the remains of the bridge and used it in two different places to create make-shift crossings of the water.
And then Wendy ran into someone she knew would be up here but didn't know where; another of our many coincidences on this trip. They were just hiking to where they would see the waterfalls. We continued on our way around Bullhead Lake and were now running into a great deal more people. With the Iceberg Trail area closed due to bears, this was probably a nice option I guess. It was starting to get a bit warmer now but we were only a couple miles away from the TH. And then low and behold, we ran into Bob who we had met on our way into the Cut Bank area Glacier last week. How 'bout that?! He was with a different family member this time but still had his big camera with him.
And then Wendy's friend caught back up with us on their way back so they chatted some more and we got some pictures. After Redrock Lake you start hiking thru some aspen alleys which is quite nice and somewhere in here we were able to find some huckleberries to eat and a couple thimbleberries. It was more shaded as well and the trail widened substantially as we got near Fishercap Lake. We encountered a young boy who was having one of those moments of not wanting to go any further and his parents trying to deal with that. Later we saw a female deer and her buck a little after that. We would see her again when we crossed the bridge over Wilbur Creek. I was able to snap a few pictures. And then we passed the signs for the trail and the closed sign to the Iceberg/Ptarmigan Trails.
We put our stuff in the car and moved it for some reason. We then walked over to the restaurant at the Swiftcurrent Inn and ordered a couple appetizers and a couple Huckleberry Lagers finishing it off with a Huckleberry Smoothie, YUM! The food was pretty good and it wasn't too crowded. We looked through the gift shop before our drive back to the KOA at St Mary. We had a different cabin that was further from the bathrooms but had a better view. After showering we met up with Bill, Jim and McKenzie and it had been decided we were going to Johnson's for dinner to meet up with another glacierchatter and her daughter. And guess who we ran into... Max. So we visited with him for a bit again.
Afterward we decided to drive to Two Sisters to get some huckleberry pie to have for breakfast the next morning. And guess who we ran into again.... Max and not only Max, but Bob. Timing can be everything. Anyway, we tried to hook up Max to help with the Glacier Institute studies that were coming up. Not sure that it ever came to fruition but Max would be a great addition as he's a great hiker and climber. I can't remember what they were wanting to count but I think Pikas.
So quite the day we had before settling in our KOA cabin for the nite.
Videos: Part 1 from the Chalet [ youtube video ]
Part 2 a top the Pass heading down [ youtube video ]
Part 3 heading down [ youtube video ]
Part 4 down to the Valley floor and Bullhead Lake [ youtube video ]
Part 5 to Red Rock Lake to Swiftcurrent Inn [ youtube video ] |
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For me, sometimes it's just as much about the journey as the destination.
Oh, and once in awhile, don't forget to look back at the trail you've traveled. |
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