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| Climbing | | 4 Hrs | | 0.00 mph |
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Second III PG • Sport • 5.10a Granite Good • 7 Pitches | | |
Linked |
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none
[ show ]
| no linked trail guides |
Partners |
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none
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| no partners | | Pro: Protection
14 draws / short slings
Optional very light rack: nuts, small to #2 cam
(Most people will skip the rack)
All anchors are Metolious Rap bolts (except at the top of P5, which are regular bolts, but right next to some shuts if you really wanted to rap) I was struck by how much of the climbing is at grade, seemed like at least half of the moves on the route were 5.10 or 10-. But I followed fearless Danny, and it is always easier to follow. | Peacemaker
Fantastic and sustained climbing for 7 pitches. Tightly bolted and very safe by Cochise standards. All pitches offer climbing at or near the 5.10a level. Most of the cruxes are slab moves and well protected. There are only a few sections that could be called runout, but all on easy ground (5.6ish)
Climbed and was on pitch 3 when a massive thunder storm formed across the plains. AHHHH! Pretty scary especially since my partner Danny and I were hardly ever together. I would belay him as he would climb then he would belay as I climbed up to him. A 5.10a is hard enough then add the gear/ supplies weight plus rain... I was terrified! As with some of my other adventures I prayed for god to hold the rain(WCC), it sprinkled and the icy wind blew straight at us. The clouds were black but they stayed just to the left of us, the choices were hurry up or rappel down in the rain, neither sounded safe to me. We climbed hard and fast, it's amazing what you can do when you fear a thunder storm. We got to the top of Sheep's Head just as some of the clouds hit, my fingers had left blood all over the gear. There aren't pictures from pitch 3 to the top because we were so worried, Great climb! BURR!! when I signed the registry top frozen rain was falling! I found shelter in a huge hueco while we waited for 2 others to finish their climb. (Ewephoria)
It is a walk off that I did in flip flops, crazy steep but I didn't like the weight of my shoes (plus gear, supplies and water) on my harness last time. I usually just like to post pictures rather than a detailed triplog but this one definitely required a write up! |
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I don't have a computer… Not because I'm against having one. Really just hasn't been a top priority on my gear list.
I am now attempting to navigate, post, reply (etc..) this site with only an iPhone… Wish me luck! |
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