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| Backpack | 32.00 Miles |
2,496 AEG |
| | Backpack | 32.00 Miles | | | |
| 2,496 ft AEG | | | | |
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| no partners | | MAGICAL SOUJOURN TO HAVASUPAI
Five thirty Tuesday morning, November 4, I found myself leaving the Valley, heading for a 5 night , 6 day stay at Havasupai, with new found friends Shi and Brenda, who were kind enough to let me join them for what would be a journey that owns part of my heart and soul for all eternity.
As we approached Flagstaff we watched the temperature drop from the 50's to the 40's then into the 30's dropping below freezing, continuing on down all the way through the 20's and bottoming out at 19. The meadows and majestic pines were blanketed with a heavy frost, a thin layer of ice had formed on the ponds and the breath of horses billowed from their noses like steam from a steam engine. As the sun peaked over the horizon casting it's first rays on the frost laden meadow it began to twinkle like stars in the dark night sky. As we rounded the corner, there stood Mount Humphrey's, gracefully and quietly standing guard over all that lays below, while the sun illuminated the fresh layer of brilliant white snow that capped her.
Soon we were heading west on I-40 toward the Seligman turnoff and Route 66. We stopped a Lilo's Westside Café in Seligman where we feasted on a breakfast fit for Kings and Queens. After overstuffing ourselves we continued on Route 66 until we hit the turn off for Road 18, which takes you 69 miles North to Hualapai Hilltop, where we would begin our decent into the Canyon.
This was my first time to the Western Canyon and despite the fact that the views from the rim are not as spectacular and expansive as from the North and South Rims they are impressive, none the less. When we arrived the mail truck was there and the mules were being loaded with mail to be taken to the Village of Supai. Other mules had already been loaded with various supplies and were departing down the trail heading for Supai. A farrier was hard at work re-shoeing mules, he informed us that they go through a set of shoes about every four weeks. We were soon making our descent into the magnificent land that lays below the Rim, looking down on a mule train as it snaked its way around the switchbacks on the trail. The descent is much gentler and shorter than other areas of the Canyon and in no time at all you are on the Canyon floor making your way down a drainage that serves as the trail, cutting through a spectacular Red Rock Canyon.
The rock formations in the red rock of Havasupai Canyon are spectacular to say the least. In many areas it is as if someone swooped down with a giant ice cream scoop and took scoops out of the vertical walls of the canyon. Water from ancient times definitely worked its' artistry through Havasupai Canyon.
As you approach the Village of Supai, Havasupai Creek which is bone dry in the upper reaches of the Canyon , comes to life magically as her magical blue green waters make their way to the surface from the amazing aquifer that lays beneath the surface. A lush greenness suddenly surrounds you adding to the sensory overload your already experiencing leaving you in awe.
Soon we found ourselves in the quaint Village of Supai, which is guarded by two red rock monoliths known as the King and Queen, in English. We passed the tourist information center, café, grocery store, post office, clinic, school, with children doing calisentics and finally the village church. From here it was past a few outlying houses, many with corrals hosting large numbers of horses. From here the trail continues about two miles to the campground. On the way you will pass the first of the falls, Navajo Falls.
As you begin the final descent into the campground you pass the most famous of the falls, Havasupai Falls. Breathtaking is an understatement. You can feel her magic as her waters plummet 100 ft to the maginificent pool of blue-green water that lays at her base.
The campground is approximately one mile long and we were told it can host 500 people. Well we walked from one end of the campground to the other and to our delight we discovered we virtually had the place all to ourselves. There were only about three sites that had people in them, it was like a ghost town and I couldn't have been happier. Needless to say we secured a primo sight on the Havasupai Falls end off the campground, among large cottonwoods, nestled right next to the creek with our own private little waterfall. The far end of the campground ends near another spectacular waterfall, Mooney Falls.
Wow all this and we just got there the adventure had barely begun!
We set up camp, R&R, ate dinner, then off to early bed, which was a spectacular experience every night. Watching the near full moon, later full moon, rise over the spectacular cliffs, illuminating the jagged vertical walls, casting shadows while listening to the water cascading down the creek that laid at our feet and over our own private falls. The moon would then set part way through the night casting darkness on the canyon, opening the door for the stars to dance in the night sky and do their own form of sensory entertainment, then as daylight began to break, if clouds were in the sky a brilliant orange hue would be cast before the sun took over the show as it made it's late but spectacular debut above the towering walls of the canyon. The sun came up around 8:30 or so and set no later than three inside the canyon. The spectacular cottonwoods that sheltered our camp would kick up a breeze and rustle their leaves for our entertainment.
The first night we had some raccoons awaken us in the night causing mischief but we soon made a deal that would cure that problem.
The second day was one of R&R, lazing around camp, reading books, visiting Havasupai and Mooney Falls etc. It was on this day that we met Dona from Flora, Indiana and her friend from Ohio. It was also the day we would meet our adopted dogs and guardians for the week. One was a male Golden Retriever the other a female Shepard/Husky mix to the tune of about 140 pounds. We meet all the above at Mooney Falls overlook. I told the dogs if they came to camp with us and kept the raccoons and horses away I would feed them tortillas in the morning. Well the dogs did just that, it was absolutely amazing. I called them our Spirit Dogs. They slept next to us at night and every time they chased a raccoon or horse off during the night they would run over and give me a good licking letting me know they had done their job. Then they would go lick Brenda and try to get into Shi's tent to let her know they were doing their job. They left us one day, but we went up to the Village and retrieved them and brought them back and they were at our sides until we left the Canyon. True friends indeed. We feed them well.
The next morning we made the climb down to Mooney Falls, this is a very interesting descent in which you actually make your way through two separate tunnels on your way down before getting to a near vertical descent of 100 feet or better. There are steel anchors in the cliff wall with chain strung between some of them and foot holds notched into the rock. The lower section is wet from the spray coming off the Falls.
It was here that we ran into Dona again. Although it was a bit late we decided we would make a go at the River and Dona would join us. This was indeed the highlight of the trip. The beauty that lies between Mooney Falls and Havasupai Rapids on the Colorado River is utterly breathtaking. I will let my pictures do most of the talking. This is a epic hike in the truest sense of the word. On the round trip hike we crossed the gorgeous blue green waters of Havasupai Creek, 14 -15 times, climbed vertical sections of cliff that required pulling ones self up by a rope, climbing up logs with foot holds notched out to ascend the wall, walked trail that was about 18 inches wide skirting the edge of the cliff falling several hundred feet to the water below, walked through acres of lush green, head tall vines, past Bear Falls and many other spectacular smaller falls and deep blue-green pools of water. Spotted some awesome wildlife.......
As I walked through a lush green canopy of various flora I had an experience of a lifetime. I came upon a ewe mountain goat that was bedded down within 10 feet of the trail in a bed of lush green grass. I was no more than ten feet from her when our eyes made contact, she started to get up to leave and I told her it was alright, I mean no harm. As we gazed into each other's eyes it was as if we both understood each other and could communicate. She settled back in and just started chewing her cud. Our eyes never left contact with each other and we remained there staring into each others eyes, my heart racing, for 10 to 15 minutes,. when Mary, Brenda and Dona showed up. I motioned for them to be very quite then as I stared into the eyes of the ewe I motioned them in close by me. It was as if we had become one. A memory I will hold with me for ever as this was indeed a wild animal in an area that isn't over run by people. By now I was wondering what was going on. I had communicated with our Spirit Dogs and now a Mountain Goat.
We continued on our journey and not to far down the trail I ran almost ran head on into a family of Big Horn. Ram, Ewe and Calf. They turned and went up the hillside alongside us, where I got some photo's of these magnificent animals.
We hiked toward the River until around 2:30 then the decision was made to turn back and return so we wouldn't be stuck out in the dark having to try to climb out from Mooney Falls. I took a coordinate and we were within a mile of the River. The fact that we didn't make the River is inconsequential, the true beauty and adventure is what laid between. I will never ever forget this day it touched me in a very special way, but I was yet to be touched again.
The next day was more R&R, visiting the falls again, swimming etc. I decided to make a trip into the Village, during the early morning hours. As I approached the outskirts of the Village I saw two Havasu , standing in the trail talking. One was elderly the other I found out to be around 50 or so. As I passed I greeted them with a good morning and continued up the trail. I noticed one of the men closed his eyes as I passed and tilted his head toward the ground. I was getting to a point to where I was going to stop and take a picture of the rock monoliths that guard the Village. Suddenly one of the men I had passed yelled out to me to wait. He approached and told me my Spirit felt right. He then went on, asking me some questions and talking very fast some in English and some in Havasupai. He told me of the King and Queen Rocks that guard the village. Then told me there was something sacred he wanted to show me. I followed him to what he wanted to show me and he told me to take a picture, then he told me to take a picture of the King and Queen Rocks. He then was talking to where it was very hard for me to understand, but he led me into the Village where he took me on a tour, we were the only ones there. He kept saying what a whacky crazy world we live in. He laid hands on me and an incredible energy filled my body, I was overcome with peace, tranquility, calmness, serenity. I had never felt anything like it. He then told me I had a very strong, honorable Spirit and would find what I was looking for. Then he left me and went into the Café, I didn't know if I should follow, so I waited to see if he would motion me in, which he did not.
Being deep inside the Canyon we were unable to see the actual Lunar Eclipse, but we sure were able to experience the results of it. A darkness came over the Canyon that was absolutely shocking. We shut our headlamps off and could not even see our hands in front of our faces, it was indeed pitch black. Later , after the eclipse was over the full moon made its debut over the sheer rock walls of the Canyon. The moon was so intense and bright, sunglasses were almost necessary to look at it.
Each night after dinner we would play Gin Rummy, and I must confess I got my ass whooped everynight.
Soon Sunday rolled around and it was time for us to depart. It was very difficult for all of us to leave this beautiful, magical place. We all left part of our souls in this magical place. We bid a fond fair well to our Spirit Dogs, and begrudgingly returned to civilization. |
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Besides that would make my Mistress, Lady Superstition, upset with me. 
Now she knows how to treat a guy!!!!!!!!
