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| Dreams of Wild Turkeys Trad 7pitch 10a, NV | |
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| | Dreams of Wild Turkeys Trad 7pitch 10a, NV | | | |
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Dreams of Wild Turkeys Trad 7pitch 10a, NV
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| Second IV • Trad • 5.10a Sandstone Good • 700 Feet 7 Pitches | | |
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| no partners | | | Pro: Full rack, but 'crux' pitches are bolted. (By crux they mean then 10a face climbs) | The tradition is to go out for pizza and discuss what trad climb we will do the next day. Of course the pizza becomes breakfast before the approach. The approach itself; is an hour long hike into the canyons of Red Rocks, with the weight of multiple ropes and a full trad rack!(Whoever says climbers don't hike must be referring to sport climbers)
The gearloop topos covered the table as we thumbed through them and picked a climb. It was Liz's first multi-pitch climb, the best option was to put her in the group of 3 with two experienced trad climbers. Their plan was Frogland; a 5.7 route with no anchors or bolts. This usually means you reach the top and walk off and out, there are no anchors to rap off.
Danny and I picked Dreams of Wild Turkeys. This route can also be done as a topout climb with 2 more gear only pitches and the last parts being a scramble. Last good bolts was clearly written after pitch 7.. 
Danny and I got an early start into clack velvet canyon and geared up for the climb. The first pitch is shared with Prince of Darkness; another classic, tough route in that area.
This was my first time with double ropes, I likes then a lot except for when the windstorm hit about pitch 5. The crux pitch for both of us was the 5.8, off width, sloper crack. You literally had to 'worm' your way up with really no hands and sparse feet. I remember thinking: If this is the 5.8 pitch I will not be able to do the hard 5.10 pitches. This is where hiking really pays off for multi-pitch climbing: Don't stop, don't assume you can't accomplish it and throw all the stubbornness you have at it; you will be surprised how good it feels. (once you are done) The crux pitches were all thin, crimpy, face climbs.
Always dress in layers and dress warm; this is a lesson I have learned in the world of multi-pitch. A windstorm hit on pitch 5 with winds strong enough to swing me on the side of the wall. It made double rope management "less than ideal!" I was so ready when we reached pitch 7 and he said we could rappel the route next to us. I think it took 5 double rope rappels to reach the ground! I am always thankful to Danny for finding the bolts, pulling the rope and setting the next rappel. Great adventure followed by dinner at the Rio Buffet with Liz, Danny, JB and Brad! |
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I am now attempting to navigate, post, reply (etc..) this site with only an iPhone… Wish me luck! |
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