| |
|
| | |
|
| Backpack | 32.92 Miles |
6,963 AEG |
| | Backpack | 32.92 Miles | 3 Days | | |
| 6,963 ft AEG | | | | |
|
|
| |
| Partners |
|
[ show ]
| partners | | This hike has been on my radar for a few years now. The name alone, Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River, brought joy to my heart and called to me. Two years ago while hiking in the Ten Lake Basin we had a dramatic view into this canyon. It never left my mind and became a high priority at the start of 2016. The planning began and the days and months flew by. Originally it was going to be Chumley, Kyle, Claire and myself but Kyle had to back out because his dog Lily needed surgery. This happened right before we left and we reached out to a few people but it was too late for them to join. So the three of us packed up and hit the road. We would spend our first day tramping around Mammoth Lakes followed by another day in Yosemite. We hit the trail starting Friday, July 22nd for three days of backpacking fun.
Day 1 July 22 11.25 miles -3,600 AEG
We got lucky and snagged a car camping spot at White Wolf the night before. Chumley volunteered to set the shuttle. He left camp at 7:45am and drove to our ending point off Soda Springs road. There is a YARTS shuttle at 10am but he was going to try to hitch hike. Claire & I chilled at camp and were delighted to see Chumley walk back into camp around 9:45am. Our shuttle was set and we were off on our adventure!
The first few miles are easy going and meander through the forest. It was really nice getting away from the crowded camp in White Wolf. After a few miles we hit the rim and started our descent. The going was fairly straightforward as the trail is in excellent condition as it switchbacks its way down. We didn’t have much of a view because of the thick forest. We continued down and made steady progress. A mile or two later we hit an overlook that had a breathtaking view of Hetch Hetchy. It reminds me of a typical Arizona Lake as it winds its way down canyon. We continued down…
Around the halfway point we hit a very steep section with tight switchbacks. We made good time again but the descent started to take its toll on our knees and ankles. Plus it was really warm with temps in the high 80’s. We continued on and the last couple of miles really dragged as we took a few breaks and finally reached Pate Valley. The valley had a lot of campsites and there was a huge camp occupied by the California Conservation Corps but it was mostly vacant. We found out later they were off for the weekend. We selected a campsite on the north side of the Tuolumne River and settled in. All three of us were beat and took a nap after getting camp set up. Our first day was over and we set our sights on the upcoming climb the next two days.
Day 2 July 23 12 miles, 3,900 AEG
We took our time on day two as we had breakfast and coffee and then slowly tore down camp. We hit the trail around mid-morning and began our trek. The first five miles were easy going with a modest elevation gain. The views of the Tuolumne River and the surrounding mountains were just breathtaking and never got old. We continued on and then began a healthy climb around the Muir Gorge. We took our time through this section and took a break around the halfway point of the climb. While resting by a waterfall off Register Creek I was stung by a bumble bee for no reason. I was a little worried about a reaction but I’ve been stung a lot in my lifetime and never had an issue and wouldn’t this time either.
After the Muir Gorge it was more of the same. The trail is in excellent condition as it slowly gains elevation. We kept at it and took breaks as needed. Our goal was Return Creek and we arrived there around mid-afternoon. We hoped for a variety of campsites but there were only a few poor sites and one group was already there. We continued on another half mile and found a crappy site near the bottom of Waterwheel. We talked about camping here but didn’t like it so Chumley volunteered to hike up to the top of Waterwheel where he found a sweet site with plenty of room & a fire ring. He returned and the three of hiked that final mile to the top and were delighted with our camp choice!
Another day was complete. We settled into camp and did our camp chores like setting up the tents, filtering water and gathering fire wood. We are camping at just over 7,000 ft and fires are allowed. Yosemite was in Stage 1 restrictions and that means no backcountry campfires below 6,000 ft. After everything was set up we walked over to the top of Waterwheel and admired this amazing waterfall! The Tuolumne River tumbles over the falls and is thrown up into the air in multiple sections of the drop. It’s an amazing sight! Once we had our fill we returned to camp and settled in for dinner and a campfire. Life was good!
Day 3 July 24 9.75 miles, 2,350 AEG
Our final day in Yosemite included another chill morning. We enjoyed a fire as we ate breakfast and packed up camp. We hit the trail around mid-morning and took our time on the hike out. The trail gains more elevation as we approached Le Conte Falls and California Falls. Both of them are magnificent and we left the trail several times to enjoy a close up view. The three waterfalls, including Waterwheel, are long as they stretch for a ways. You could easily spend hours hiking up and down exploring these falls. There were so many mini waterfalls it started to get silly. I had no idea it was like this I was in heaven!
The trail levels off after you reach the top of California Falls and the next mile to Glen Aulin is easy going. We took a break near Glen Aulin by another spectacular waterfall and then started the push for Tuolumne Meadows and our end. We still have five miles to go and just under a thousand AEG to ascend. This final stretch took its toll on us and we thought it would never end. Finally we reached Parsons Cabin and the final half mile to the car was simple. From there we packed up and headed for Tonopah NV where we would spend another night in a hotel before returning to Phoenix.
Final Thoughts:
This was a spectacular hike! The Tuolumne River was flowing strong and the waterfalls were gushing! It seemed like every turn brought on another spectacular sight. This hike never got old but the climbs did. On our last day Chumley coined the term “waterclimb”. It was very fitting because every time we saw a waterfall meant another climb.
Speaking of climbs Chumley and I disagreed on which direction to go. Both directions have their advantages. Chumley wanted to start in Tuolumne and head west. This direction starts at higher elevation and heads down canyon roughly 20 miles then there’s a huge climb out of Pate Valley returning to White Wolf. Most of the AEG is on the last day with less weight in the pack. I chose starting at White Wolf because it was easier to set up logistics ending in Tuolumne. This meant over 1,000 additional AEG but I wanted to head up canyon seeing each waterfall from the bottom thus earning each one with the climb up. It was a lot of work but I would go this way again. You can’t go wrong with either direction.
This canyon has plenty of camping options and water is almost always available. We weren’t sure on when camping would be available. There turned out to be a lot of great choices. I wish we had another day or two. It would be time well spent especially for fishing.
I would highly recommend this hike. The Tuolumne River is a gem and hiking parallel to it is heaven on earth. The waterfalls are world class and every turns brings a new delightful sight. |
| _____________________
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
| |
Route Editor
Route Scout
