| |
|
| | |
|
| Backpack | 34.64 Miles |
8,613 AEG |
| | Backpack | 34.64 Miles | 3 Days | | |
| 8,613 ft AEG | | | | |
|
|
| |
| Linked |
|
none
[ show ]
| no linked trail guides |
| Partners |
|
[ show ]
| partners | | After a late arrival at the trailhead on Thursday night we set in for a good night sleep. Friday morning as we were organizing our packs a trio of local ranch dogs approached camp with cautious curiosity. Once they realized we were no threat to them, they apparently decided they wanted to adopt new humans, and spent the next three days following us through borderland canyons.
The first 5+ miles of this hike make a series of "small" canyon crossings as it traverses the southwestern slopes of Navajo Mountain. The views across this landscape are second-to-none. For a route that doesn't see that much use, it is in phenomenal condition -- as good as any secondary national park trail might be. The tread was clear, erosion mitigation was current and effective, and cairns were plentiful -- and enormous. Based on brush trimmings found over the next couple of days, I guess that work was done on the route last fall.
One important note about the route as explained in the description: at the top of the descent into Horse Canyon, the route to the right has been decommissioned. Previously posted GPS routes now follow a path that has very intentionally been obscured and intended not to be hiked anymore. This split is shown on many maps, including USGS Topo maps. But now, only the southern/western route traversing lower on the slope is still used.
If you are not following an older GPS track, you'd never know of this change. We didn't realize we were "off-track" until halfway to the bottom of the canyon because the trail is so well developed and marked that it would be almost impossible to go the "old way". Only on the return trip Sunday was I able to carefully look for the old route junctions and while desert landscape like this isn't quick to return to nature, somebody did a very good -- and deliberate -- job at leading hikers on the new (original?) route.
Back to the hike, the final push up to Yabut Pass dragged on but the views were stunning. A long traverse brings you to the first top of the pass which then meanders through some rough trail past the old campsite and down to the lower notch in the cliff that the trail passes through where the old sign marks the pass.
From here the 2000 foot descent was not as challenging as expected, with better trail conditions than previously reported. But that kind of elevation is knee-jarring even if the trail isn't awful. Reaching the bottom, I pushed ahead in search of that increasingly-sought-after first water and more importantly, the ideal site for our group to set up camp.
I ended up heading downstream almost a mile past where we ended up camping while searching for a better, and bigger, site for our tents -- and more importantly, shade from the blistering afternoon sun. Thankfully, the deep canyon walls provide shade where the lack of trees do not and we settled in on a shelf along a wall that featured welcome relief. We set up camp and all took a well-earned rest, led by the dogs, who might have made this same trip dozens of times, or perhaps didn't realize exactly what they were getting into when they decided to join our pack.
I took an hour or so before dinner to climb up above the canyon and get a better view of our surroundings, which was pretty amazing.
Saturday morning we headed out on our day trip to Rainbow Arch. The climb up Redbud Pass was not as challenging as reported and the descent never featured anything that resembled a climb or could possibly require a rope. I'm not sure if time has created a rockfall to alleviate the previous obstacles or if trail construction has occurred. It is now just a minor scramble in places. The meadows in Redbud Canyon below the pass are beautiful and were dotted with spring wildflowers.
Shortly after passing the junction with Bridge Canyon, and the junction with the north trail, we took a short break at a huge grassy camping area. While we had seen no footprints on the trail up to this point, there appeared to have been at least three people to have come in on the north trail in recent times, perhaps a week earlier. But not much traffic out here all things considered.
As the trail drops down to the Kayenta formation (which seems similar to the Supai in south rim drainages), water surfaces and the trail stays higher on the shelf above. As we traversed around toward Echo Camp, a view downcanyon provided the first view of the massive arch that was our destination. Before heading for the up-close view, we took the detour to see the popular camp. Spoiler alert: it echoes! A handful of separate camp areas each featured old bedframes and fire rings. A large marshy pond sits at the top of the canyon, along with a healthy patch of poison ivy. The top of the alcove includes yet another camp spot along with one of the three spots where we saw ample inscriptions from previous visitors.
Back downhill we headed over to the arch and all the requisite photos and observations. Kathy headed for the lake and was able to commandeer some much-appreciated kibble for our canine family from touristy boat people while the rest of us napped under the totally fake "natural-looking" shade structure.
The first part of the return was hotter than preferred but the turn into the canyon to head over redbud offered welcome shade and later we took the opportunity for a swim at a fantastic little pool we passed along the way. Back at camp the dogs stepped up defending our lives with some pointed aggression toward canyon ravens, which is tough not to appreciate.
On Sunday the wind forecast was notable but it picked up on Saturday night, and occasional gusts had everybody awake a few times. On the hike out, the two miles climbing up to Yabut Pass was unlike anything I have ever hiked in. Type-3 fun would be a stretch. Navajo Mtn was showing 60-70mph on the high wind warning forecast maps and there were gusts along the climb that were literally breathtaking. Several times I had to stop and crouch to maintain my balance. Think positive ... it wasn't sunny and hot like the day before!
The suck factor was marginally better after the pass, something I didn't expect, but also still miserable enough that I was ready to be done. The two younger dogs were on the same page as me and the three of us powered through the seemingly endless canyon crossings on the return to the trailhead without more than a brief stop to make sure I got them watered in the middle of 8 dry miles.
Back at the trailhead the pups got some treats from the cooler and we relaxed a bit waiting for the others to arrive. Once everybody was back we cleaned up quickly and headed our separate ways. The dogs ran behind the truck for a couple of miles but bailed in the area of some nearby ranches. They're probably still sleeping after a fun weekend in the wilderness. Just like the rest of us!
Final thoughts: There are cell towers on Navajo Mountain, so even in the deep canyons below, cell service was available much of the time. Comforting perhaps, but mostly annoying. Just put it in airplane mode and enjoy the remoteness of the place without a connection to the outside world. The trail seems to be in much better condition now than it has been for previous hikes. Is this a regular thing? Will it deteriorate quickly? And who is maintaining this trail anyway? Navajo Parks and Rec? NPS?
Thanks to 9L for planning and doing the legwork. Good to see the jeep on a fun road again. It was fun to hike with Karl, Kathy, and Kristy again, and a pleasure to meet and hike with Pops, Nipps, and Junior. |
| _____________________
| I'm not sure what my spirit animal is, but I'm confident it has rabies. |
| | |
|
|
|
|
|
| |
Route Editor
Route Scout
