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| | 5.8 | Toprope | | 1 Pitch | 60 ft | | | Hard pull over the bulge, but Bob made it. Not many bolts but nice anchors over the bulge. | | | | Bloodly Likely |
| | 5.8 | Sport | | | | | | Only the lower part | | | | In Lightning |
| | 5.8 | Sport | | 2 Pitches | 180 ft | | | Only the lower part | | | | Corporal Punishment |
| | 5.9 | Toprope | | 1 Pitch | 60 ft | | | Great route, but hard heel hook over the bulge, Bob made it. Bolted all the way and nice anchors over the bulge. | | | | Lights Out |
| | 5.10d | Sport | | 1 Pitch | 75 ft | | | This is not the same as Lights out at 10 Candles out at 11, according to SQL III. What we did is just to the left of Bloody Likely and is a great 8+ or 9- 75 feet route that ends at the mid wall chains. You may have to manuever around some, but it is fun. | | | The wall has PM sun, but belayers will have shade all day. Nice, mostly two pitch, crag with some interesting, some might say confusing, routes that stop in the middle of nowhere, and cross over each other at will. Some good additional information on Mountain Project and in Squeezing the Lemmon III, without which I think one would have a hard time figuring out how to attack the wall. Next time we visit, we'll explore toproping opportunities, but I had a hard time seeing exactly where to drop a rope over the edge. Also, the belay stations are few and far between, meaning you'll have to use the anchors and chains at mid wall which have poor footing. However, the easy approach and cool temps at nearly 8000 feet will mean lots of use on Summer weekends. Based on Bob's grunting and panting while on lead, I would expect the leads to be a little harder than similar grades at, say, The Havens. I suggest starting/warming up with the two toprope routes over the bulge and go from there. Lovely view down Palisades Canyon, worth the trip out by itself.
One last thing, the FS does not want people to park in the Showers Point CG, but the camp host we talked to did not mind one dropping off gear at the water tank if the gate is open, which saves a couple hundred yards of carrying a heavy pack. There are climber's paths around both sides of the crag to the west and south walls. Both are hard, but they are short. |
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| Check out my Instagram posts at "cartershift", and videos on my Rumble channel "rvcarter". |
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