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| Keet Seel - Betatakin Loop, AZ | |
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| | Keet Seel - Betatakin Loop, AZ | | | |
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Keet Seel - Betatakin Loop, AZ
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| Backpack | 20.65 Miles |
2,183 AEG |
| | Backpack | 20.65 Miles | 2 Days | | |
| 2,183 ft AEG | | | | |
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| partners | | More than a dozen times I've driven past Tsegi Canyon on the 160 and looked up between its red sandstone walls with intrigue. A couple of previous trips to the national monument have provided further interest and curiosity. Rock piles and broken pottery have never been real motivators for me, but I do appreciate when I encounter some quality intact structures, and of course Keet Seel is among the best remaining examples in the region.
Since once again permitting visitors in a post-pandemic world, the previous free-for-all has since been reevaluated and entering the dwelling is no longer an option. Nonetheless, the close-up view of the historic structure is impressive to say the least.
The permit and guided trip plan was an out and back to Keet Seel. Our guide was a very fit young man from Canyon de Chelly and his boss took on the quiet role of group sweep. Both were long-distance trail runners with little desire for lengthy breaks, something that 9L and I appreciated, but a good chunk of the rest of the group may not have been thrilled about.
I did my best to politely let the guide lead, but 9L found himself ahead of the whole group about 90% of the time. It is possible that our pace may have influenced the overall group, but I choose to believe that the trail runner guide was going to keep everybody moving at a good clip regardless.
Having never looked at a photo or read a triplog for this one, the experience was enjoyable with a few surprises. A waterfall? Who knew!? Springs? Cool! Quicksand? Fun!
It took us 4.5 hours to make it the 8.5 miles to the camping area at Keet Seel, but the hike in features plenty of stops and photo opportunities. The camping area was a bit overgrown and full of downed trees. The composting toilet was unmaintained and closed to use. We had been told ahead of time that WAG bags were required and all waste had to be carried out. Yay.
After an hour or so to set up camp, we made the short trip over to the dwelling where Justin went through a thorough presentation on the history of Keet Seel and provided tidbits of additional information and answered questions. We were highly entertained by one group member who continually attempted to mansplain (whitesplain?) to our Navajo guide his own perceptions of native history and culture. It was mind-numbing stupidity and I was highly impressed by the patience and restraint our guide had with his responses.
From the presentation area, we proceeded to the base of the dwelling for an up-close look as far as the base of the ladder. NPS has recently made more of an effort to coordinate their management of this native site with actual native leaders and as a result, visitors entering the structure is not permitted as it had been in the past. (If you go on the tour, your guide will explain why. It all makes perfect sense to me and I have no complaints.)
After the presentation, we headed back to camp for dinner and libations. No. No libations here. Hot cider though. The forecast wasn't great. It was insanely windy, gusting in the 40s, whipping through the canyon. No fires even in calm conditions. The forecast low was 30, and we used that to push our scheduled 6am MDT (5am MST) wakeup time back by an hour. Nonetheless, it dropped to 28 before we hopped back into the stream with wet shoes and started our way back.
Cloudy skies and canyon walls kept the temperature below freezing for the first two hours of the hike out before it mercifully began to tick up toward 40.
It took less than 3 hours to reach the confluence of Keet Seel Canyon and Laguna Creek at Tsegi and Long Canyons where the beginning of the climb out ascends a steep sand dune. The day before, our guide had floated the idea of making a side trip to Betatakin on the way out, and it seemed to be a popular idea then. Today however, there were some members of the group who may have been less enthusiastic to add the extra 2.2 miles to their day.
So as to prevent some kind of stink eye judgement, we were asked to close our eyes and raise hands to see who wished to add the side trip and who did not. Because there were 4 or 5 who absolutely did not want to go, the guide and his boss (sweeper) had a chat and radioed in to HQ for approval to split the group. The exhausted few headed back to the cars, while the rest of us split off and headed toward Betatakin.
I'd seen this dwelling from the Sandal Trail overlook before and honestly, I think it's cooler than Keet Seel is. Perhaps it's the more orderly architecture plan that just works more for me? But I was most excited to walk the trail that cuts through the dense wooded fir and aspen forest of Betatakin Canyon. It's just such an unexpected and out of place microclimate. It's no wonder that ancient people found this to be a great spot to call home.
After another nice presentation from our guide, we had the opportunity to climb out of the canyon via the full length of the Aspen Trail which ends right at the visitor center. I had hiked the upper part of this trail before — it is open to hikers all the time, but it ends at an overlook point at the head of the canyon. I had seen no previous reports of hikers being permitted to hike the lower portion of the trail, and upon returning home and researching it, I still haven't.
It was built in 1963 and was cut into the canyon wall. The trail cut caused geological weakness that resulted in somewhat regular rockfalls. A 9-ton rockfall in March 1982 closed the trail, and a 200-300 ton rockfall later that year sealed its fate. In February 1983, yet another rockfall damaged the trail. A report posted from 2000 references these rockfalls in the park's management plan with possible recommendations for how to open the trail — one option being a catwalk attached to the canyon wall. None of the options were implemented and Betatakin access continued via the Keet Seel trail down Tsegi Point.
I can find no documentation on when the trail was cleared or what rockfall mitigation efforts have taken place, nor any indication of when the trail was reopened. Prior to the pandemic closure, visitors seem to have posted that the trail was still closed permanently.
Anyway ... it's the most amazing trail cut I have ever walked on. It is a 927-step staircase gaining over 700 feet (figure climbing steps in a 60+ story building), meticulously cut into the cliff face and set with beautiful stonework and concrete. Old pictures show there was once a hand rail on the outside. There is no longer. Our guide said that some Betatakin tours now take this trail. Others take the Tsegi Point route. And some do it as a loop. Apparently it is the guide's decision. If you have the opportunity, I highly recommend the full Aspen Trail experience! It's a real treat!
Back up top, the Betatakin group had to hike back to our vehicles at the Keet Seel trailhead. Everybody stashed packs at the VC for the 1.5 mile hike, and a couple people stayed behind and waited for a ride.
One of the group members suggested that we 13 strangers should take a group photo, but my suggestion that we close our eyes and also vote on this proposal provided a quick end to this proposal. Sorry Tibber.
This is a really beautiful geologic stretch of Arizona and I'm glad that I was finally able to get into the canyon system and explore just a little bit. It was my first-ever guided-tour backpack and wasn't as terrible as I expected it could be. It was quite enjoyable to spend a good bit of time chatting with our Navajo guide and learn more about the life, culture, and history of the people who preceded us here. |
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Fir Canyon |
Pools to trickle |
Pools to trickle |
| | | Saw pools of water from above. Maybe some light flow. | | _____________________
| I'm not sure what my spirit animal is, but I'm confident it has rabies. |
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