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Rim to Rim - South Kaibab & Bright Angel Trail - 3 members in 11 triplogs have rated this an average 4 ( 1 to 5 best )
11 triplogs
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Oct 28 2023
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 Guides 3
 Routes 632
 Photos 8,235
 Triplogs 604

54 male
 Joined Apr 13 2011
 Gilbert, AZ
Rim to RimNorthwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Hiking avatar Oct 28 2023
ddgrunningTriplogs 604
Hiking50.31 Miles 13,812 AEG
Hiking50.31 Miles   18 Hrs   53 Mns   2.66 mph
13,812 ft AEG
 
Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim (aka Tri-Rim).

This has been on my bucket list for years. I've "done" it a handful of times, but always with the *asterisk of spending a night on the north rim between the two crossings. So, this time, the goal was to do it continuously. My friend was kind enough to organize the trip and extend an invite to me and several others. But, as time went on, the group dwindled down to the two of us.

We set out for the South Kaibab trailhead at 12:15 a.m. under a full moon, and promptly got lost ....
We couldn't park at the trailhead, so we parked close by but missed the turn off and ended up hiking almost a mile before we realized our error. We ended up hiking out to Yaki Point, when it became clear that this was not the SK trailhead (for some reason, I had in my mind that the SK TH WAS Yaki Point.) So, as if R2R2R is not long enough, we started out by adding 2 more miles before we got "started." Haha!

Thankfully, that was the last of our navigational challenges. From there, we enjoyed a beautiful night hiking under the full moon, and rarely needed to turn on the headlamps. Made it to the river around 3:15 am.

Wore my Tevas for the first 14 miles, but got a blister anyway, so switched to my trailrunners for the final 35-36 miles.

Weather was fantastic--not too hot in the canyon, not too cold on the rims.

Felt relatively good after arriving at our halfway point on the North Rim at 8200 ft., but was nervous about the return trip. But, with no other options, we plunged back into the deep for another 24 miles.
Intermittent cloud cover and a slight breeze kept us cool. Made it back to the river almost exactly 12 hours after we had first reached it, at 3:15 pm.

Then it was time to grind out elevation from 2,400 at the river to 6,800 at the south rim. Thankfully, the angle of the sun kept the river trail in the shade (and cast amazing evening light on the opposing Canyon walls), and by the time we turned up Pipe Creek, we enjoyed more shade.

I had a good second wind carry me to the top of Devil's Corkscrew (the first major climb), and then we slogged our way at a decent clip to Havasupai Gardens (fka Indian Gardens).

I often preach about the "carnage" that can occur from Havasupai Gardens to the rim, which involves climbing 3000 over the final 4.5 miles. Normally, I'm still feeling strong on this stretch in a "regular" R2R, but I was depleted and felt a much closer kinship to others who I have seen hit the wall hard on this section of the trail.

After a short break at HG, we began the final ascent, still marching along at a steady but slightly slower pace. With 2 miles to go, darkness set in and out came the headlamps, as the still full moon had not risen above the rim just yet.

The final 1.5 miles / 1000 ft of gain was painful, but I must have passed 40 other, headlamp-clad fellow sufferers over this stretch.

Reaching the Bright Angel trailhead at shortly after 7 pm, my elation at "crossing the finish line" after 50 miles and just shy of 19 hours of hiking, was quickly met with my body reminding me what I had been suppressing for several miles. I managed to keep all the cookies intact, but both my hiking partner and I were not feeling well at all.

We were very grateful to our friend who lives in Tusayan and graciously agreed to pick us up and shuttle us back to our car by the SK trailhead. He was a true lifesaver! While we waited for him to arrive, we were delighted to find out that the outdoor bathrooms at the BA trailhead were heated, so we locked ourselves in our respective stalls and tried to warm up, stop shivering, and keep our stomachs from rebelling!

Back at our motel, we grabbed some hot chocolate from the lobby, shuffled our way to our room, took showers and were out by 9 pm--nearly 22 hours from when we had last awoken.

A day later, I felt much refreshed and began enjoying the sense of accomplishment. When asked if I'd do it again, my response was: You don't ask a woman who just gave birth if she's ready to have another one! Give it some time, and "we'll see ....

Posting this now, a week later, I think the amnesia is already setting in, and I can see myself doing this again. :-)
_____________________
  1 archive
Jul 30 2023
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 Guides 2
 Routes 21
 Photos 64
 Triplogs 7

male
 Joined Oct 30 2024
 Kenilworth, NJ
R2r2r, AZ 
R2r2r, AZ
 
Backpack avatar Jul 30 2023
ckoss_Triplogs 7
Backpack54.16 Miles 11,311 AEG
Backpack54.16 Miles2 Days   9 Hrs   50 Mns   
11,311 ft AEG20 LBS Pack
 
1st trip
The 2nd of 3 Grand Canyon backpacking trips for 2023.

Preface
As college students, the best time for vacation was during the summer, which can be brutal in the canyon. My hiking partner was only available in late July for their first trip to GC. I previously did a R2R in 2017. We decided on South Kaibab - North Kaibab - Bright Angel with 2 nights at Cottonwood Campground. We had 2 interesting encounters in the early morning of Day 3.

Day 1 - Lemonade and Ribbon Falls
The first Hikers' Express shuttle arrived arrived at 4 AM to take us to the South Kaibab TH. Today was ~14 miles from the TH to Cottonwood. We topped off our water and headed down the canyon by headlamp. The shelter at the Tipoff enticed us to stop and have a quick break, followed by crossing the black bridge. We made it to the Canteen right at 8 AM and enjoyed a few cups of lemonade before entering the Box section of North Kaibab. We also collected out passport stamps at the Ranger Station. After an hour or so in the Box, we decided to cool off in the Bright Angel creek by laying down in a shallow section and it was very relieving to escape the intense heat. Around noon we crossed the creek to visit Ribbon Falls before arriving to camp. We thought about visiting Upper Ribbon Falls, but we were content with our time with the lower falls. We arrived at Cottonwood at 1 PM and collected our passport stamps and above us was a thermometer in the shade reading 102F. We spend the rest of the day eating food and enjoying the creek.

Day 2 - North Rim
The plan for today was to keep our tents and other non-essential gear at our campsite at Cottonwood as we ascend to the North Rim and visit the Visitor Center for the passport stamps. We started down the trail at 5 AM followed by a quick break at Manzanita to fill up water and sketch a doodle on the chalk board. We had to wait for the bathrooms to be finished cleaning before using them. It was fascinating seeing all of the equipment to perform the trail repairs due to the rock slides earlier that year. There were several steel cables spanning across the canyon nearby. We also spotted a fresh pipeline fracture across the canyon from North Kaibab trail where the water was gushing out spraying against the canyon wall. As we were nearing the final ascent to the Coconino Overlook, a nearby horse escaped a tour group and the wrangler shouted to us to grab it, which we were able to stop it! We made it to the TH at 11 AM and debated on stopping at the gas station store or just to proceed to the lodge and visitor center. There is no shuttle on the North Rim like the South Rim and we debated on asking to hitch-hike, but being from NJ we have never done that, so we just followed the path to the lodge. We collected our stamps, enjoyed the views, inhaled lunch at the deli, and started back down North Kaibab at 4 PM. I have not been to the North Rim since 2017 and I completely forgot the powerful moment of seeing the San Francisco Peaks above the South Rim. I thought it was interesting that visitation to Roaring Springs is off limits now as I remember in 2017 that we could take the side trail to the base of the springs. Luckily it was partly cloudy today so the temperature at Cottonwood was only 90F when we arrived back at 7 PM.

Day 3 - Strange Encounters
Since this was the first time for my hiking partner to visit the corridor trails, I splurged and reserved breakfast at the Canteen for late seating (6:30AM) so we woke up at 3 AM to complete the ~7 miles to make it on time. The moon was very bright and lit up the canyon, but we still hiked with headlamp. On the way to Phantom Ranch, we observed a skunk on the side of the trail, a first for me. Soon after, we had another encounter. This time, a woman in a white dress was approaching us in the opposite direction with no headlamp. When we crossed paths, she appeared to have no pack or gear. We were very confused and we asked if she was okay and where she was heading. We do not remember exactly recall, but I remember being confused because she said something along the lines of going to a meadow, which does not make sense to me. We arrived at the Canteen by 6AM, but the staff was able to feed us early since it was just the 2 of us for breakfast. My partner and I really enjoyed the meal and felt it was worth the money to receive all of the fresh food and calories considering our relatively aggressive itinerary for the time of the year. We crossed Silver Bridge at 7AM and making it to Havasupai Gardens before 10AM. Side note, we passed a mother/daughter descending North Kaibab on Day 2, they passed Cottonwood around 8PM with the plan to hike R2R through the night. We passed them again on the way to Havasupai Gardens and they looked exhausted. We took quick breaks at the 2 rest houses and made it to the TH at 2:30PM. Until next time in November.

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water less than max Bright Angel Creek Medium flow Medium flow

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Phantom Creek Light flow Light flow

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Ribbon Falls Light flow Light flow

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water 4 out of 5 Roaring Springs Gallon + per minute Gallon + per minute

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Wall Creek Light flow Light flow
 
Mar 16 2023
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 Routes 7
 Photos 3
 Triplogs 35

51 male
 Joined Sep 12 2006
 Phoenix, AZ
South Kaibab adventure, AZ 
South Kaibab adventure, AZ
 
Backpack avatar Mar 16 2023
kaiboxerTriplogs 35
Backpack7.40 Miles 4,700 AEG
Backpack7.40 Miles   7 Hrs   45 Mns   1.44 mph
4,700 ft AEG33 LBS Pack
 
no photosets
1st trip
Route Scout Route Recorded  on Route Scout | Pop | Map | Popup | MapDEX
This trail offers a lot of ways to kick your butt! Snow, ice, mud (crampons highly suggested) for the first Mile and a half, then puddles, cobblestone, tall water retention steps. However, that being said the views are amazing. My son twinged his ankle at about 2 miles down, but worked through it for the next two days.
_____________________
  2 archives
Apr 30 2022
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 Guides 33
 Routes 286
 Photos 445
 Triplogs 251

35 male
 Joined Oct 23 2017
 Tempe
Rim to Rim - South Kaibab & Bright Angel TrailNorthwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Hiking avatar Apr 30 2022
KingLeonidasTriplogs 251
Hiking17.43 Miles 4,893 AEG
Hiking17.43 Miles   8 Hrs   16 Mns   2.39 mph
4,893 ft AEG      59 Mns Break20 LBS Pack
 
Linked   none no linked trail guides
Partners none no partners
Route Scout Route Recorded  on Route Scout | Pop | Map | Popup | MapDEX
Hiked the Grand Canyon as a day hike with Victoria, Kristine, and Sally. Like last year, the plan was to start early in the morning down South Kaibab, cross the Colorado river to pass through Phantom Ranch, cross back and then hike back up Bright Angel at the end of the day.

This time our companions were in better shape, but we were in worse shape. We had been training for the hike but I had been traveling for work extensively and was not able to train as well as I would have liked (and certainly not as as much as we trained last time). We were determined to go for it again and everyone got a good night's sleep and were ready to face the challenge.

With everyone having slept properly, there was less of a rush to get finished and we were all able to stick together and "stop and smell the roses" (or rather take lots of pictures) on the way down. The views were fantastic as usual and we passed a mule train on the way up. The water level at the river was surprisingly low, lower than I have ever seen it. There were sand bars in several places and lots of shallow places to swim. The water was clear and blue, not muddy as it sometimes is after upstream precipitation.

We stopped at the last resthouse (the one at the river at the end of Bright Angel trail) to put our feet in the water and have lunch. We brought the usual jerky, trailmix, bars, dried fruit and other trail snacks for lunch as we did last time but Kristine and Sally brought Chipotle they had gotten to-go from flagstaff on the way up. Their lunch looked much more appetizing and we decided to bring real food for lunch the next time we do this hike.

Hiking out Bright Angel we did spread out a bit. Victoria and I got done eating first and given that Sally was the faster hiker, we got a head start. Kristine and Sally quickly caught up with us and Sally carried on ahead while we stuck with Kristine. Sally was not as acclimated to the heat as the rest of us and was trying to get ahead of the sun. At Indian Gardens we ran into other members of the party that were camping with us (but opted out of the rim to rim hike). They hiked bright angel to Plateau Point and like us were on the way back up when we met at Indian Gardens. We largely stuck together for the hike out.

At the rim we checked the time and we shaved a full hour off our previous time on this route (which was pretty impressive). Dinner that night was well deserved! I hope we can continue to maintain this annual tradition.

Hike Video:
[ youtube video ]

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water 3 out of 5water less than max Bright Angel Creek Medium flow Medium flow
running under the bridge at phantom ranch

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Garden Creek Light flow Light flow
Indian Garden had flow

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Pipe Creek Light flow Light flow
creek had flow, rock hopped across
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Apr 16 2022
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 Triplogs 5

male
 Joined Mar 22 2022
 Villa Park, IL
S Kaibob - Bright Angel, AZ 
S Kaibob - Bright Angel, AZ
 
Hiking avatar Apr 16 2022
drmadsenTriplogs 5
Hiking20.66 Miles 7,513 AEG
Hiking20.66 Miles   13 Hrs   55 Mns   2.10 mph
7,513 ft AEG   4 Hrs   5 Mns Break
 
no photosets
1st trip
Route Scout Route Recorded  on Route Scout | Pop | Map | Popup | MapDEX
What a wonderful experience!!
 
Feb 15 2022
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 Guides 59
 Routes 1,100
 Photos 1,191
 Triplogs 1,290

male
 Joined Jan 01 2023
 Arizona
Rim to Rim - South Kaibab & Bright Angel TrailNorthwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Hiking avatar Feb 15 2022
pseudalpineTriplogs 1,290
Hiking17.35 Miles 5,484 AEG
Hiking17.35 Miles   6 Hrs   23 Mns   2.95 mph
5,484 ft AEG      30 Mns Break
 
no photosets
1st trip
Partners none no partners
Standard GC fare, rude wranglers, bashful mules, lots 'o poop & piss, dust, wind, but no summits. Great!
  3 archives
Nov 20 2021
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 Guides 3
 Routes 632
 Photos 8,235
 Triplogs 604

54 male
 Joined Apr 13 2011
 Gilbert, AZ
Rim to Rim - South Kaibab & Bright Angel TrailNorthwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Hiking avatar Nov 20 2021
ddgrunningTriplogs 604
Hiking18.68 Miles 4,739 AEG
Hiking18.68 Miles   8 Hrs   57 Mns   2.52 mph
4,739 ft AEG   1 Hour   32 Mns Break
 
1st trip
Partners none no partners
Route Scout Route Recorded  on Route Scout | Pop | Map | Popup | MapDEX
Great weekend trip with a few friends. We were able to get a room at Maswick Lodge. Paid for a Xanterra van/taxi ($20) to get to the trailhead a little earlier than the hiker express shuttle (which doesn't start till 7 am this time of year). Hit the trail around 6 a.m. with a full moon overhead. Weather was pretty nice for late November (low 40s to start). Weather in the canyon was fantastic. And we had shade almost the entire hike, even up Devil's Corkscrew. Trail traffic was relatively low, so pretty good solitude for a corridor-trail trip. Maintenance crews were trimming a chopping up some cottonwoods in Bright Angel Campground. It was strange to hear the sound of a chainsaw in the inner canyon.

All in all, a great trip!
_____________________
 
May 09 2021
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 Guides 33
 Routes 286
 Photos 445
 Triplogs 251

35 male
 Joined Oct 23 2017
 Tempe
Rim to Rim - South Kaibab & Bright Angel TrailNorthwest, AZ
Northwest, AZ
Hiking avatar May 09 2021
KingLeonidasTriplogs 251
Hiking17.46 Miles 6,164 AEG
Hiking17.46 Miles   9 Hrs   1 Min   2.21 mph
6,164 ft AEG   1 Hour   7 Mns Break15 LBS Pack
 
Linked   none no linked trail guides
Partners none no partners
Route Scout Route Recorded  on Route Scout | Pop | Map | Popup | MapDEX
Intro
South Kaibab Trail to Bright Angel is the "easiest" way to do a Grand Canyon Rim to Rim hike in a single day. I say the "easiest" (with quotations) because this is still an extremely difficult hike that requires training in advance, good weather during the right part of the year, good physical conditioning, proper equipment, and preparation. The hike covers 17.5 miles and over a mile of accumulated elevation gain; it is breathtaking in more than one way. The logistics of this particular route are much simpler than other Rim to Rim Grand Canyon routes in that you don't need reservations in advance, shuttle vehicles, or a support team to meet you on the other side. It is relatively popular i.e. we weren't the only ones doing this route on the day we went (we made some friends at Phantom Ranch).

Logistics/Getting there
South Kaibab Trail is readily accessible via the shuttle busses or regular car (someone will likely have to drop you off as parking is limited). When we were there, they had blocked off the pull-out entirely (not sure why, it may have been Covid related), so we had to walk an extra 1/4 mile to the trailhead. Likewise, Bright Angel Trail (where you ascend) is also on the shuttle bus route, and you can easily get to Mather Campground in the park (where we stayed) or to the various parking areas if your lodgings are outside the park.

Permit
An advance reservation or permit for this hike is not (at the time of writing) required. The National Park entrance fee (paid at the gate on a per-vehicle basis) is required.

Navigation
Navigation is the one part of this hike that is easy. All the trails are clear, and there is signage at almost all of the intersections. There is also an alternate River Trail route that can be used if one of the suspension bridges is down for maintenance.

Trail Conditions
The trails conditions are typical for the Grand Canyon National Park. They are generally packed dirt with wood erosion control ledges which inevitably act as steps. It is usually a bit dusty but only noticeable if a big group or a mule train just went by. There are a few sections on the river trail area and bottom of Bright Angel where the trail is sandy and tiring due to your feet sinking in but these areas tended to be short. There are also sections below Indian Gardens where you will have to rock hop across a few springs, but these tended to be shallow and not very wide. Mule trains operate on both South Kaibab and Bright Angel trails so you will need to yield the right of way when you come across them. You will also need to watch your step and avoid stepping in the "mule dirt" and "mule mud" when you come across it.

Weather
This hike is best done in late April/early May in the spring or late September/early October in the Fall. Even then the weather can make your hike pleasant (if it is relatively cool) or significantly less so (if it is a hot day). An early start is absolutely critical as the temperature in the canyon goes up by ~2 F for every 1000' of elevation dropped so the general strategy is to get to the bottom well before noon and begin the ascent before it gets too hot. This way the temperature increase from the sun coming up is counteracted by the temperature drop from the increasing elevation gain of the ascent. We had a relatively late start time of ~7 am at the trailhead. The group we hiked with normally starts this hike at 6-6:30 and has started as early as 3 am (if the weather is going to be really hot). We had a relatively cool day and are pretty fast hikers so we didn't run into any temperature/weather-related issues.

Water
Water and water logistics is one of the primary reasons to choose this particular set of trails for a rim-to-rim hike. South Kaibab is a completely dry trail, but it is also one of the shortest routes to the bottom, which is why it is used for the descent. Technically there is a rainwater collection system at one of the outhouses, but that would need to be purified and is only useable if it has rained recently.

Conversely, Bright Angel Trail has reliable water at Indian Gardens and the Phantom Ranch area (the latter actually has bathrooms with running water). There are also spigots at the 3 mile and mile-and-a-half resthouses although these are less reliable and you have to check with the rangers the day of your hike to verify if they are operating if you plan to rely on them. The status of the latter water sources changes daily. The day before our hike we were told that the water was off but on the hike itself, we found that they were running. The Colorado river is, of course, a reliable water source though it has to be purified and often allowed to settle first if it is muddy.

The relative reliability of water sources on Bright Angel Trail is why it is chosen for the ascent. You do not need to carry excessively heavy quantities of water or cache water with this trail selection. With the right weather, adequate speed, and all the spigots running, it is possible to do the hike with only 2 liters of water carrying capacity. This is definitely not recommended though, we did it with 4 liters of capacity per person but deliberately did not fill everything completely to save weight once we found out that the rest houses had water.

As usual, the water supplied at the various spigots in the Grand Canyon Nation Park tastes like it has been sitting in a plastic tank in the sun for a week (which is to say awful, and may actually be occurring lol) but it is safe to drink without additional purification.

General Comments and Musings
The Grand Canyon is beautiful, no matter which path you take to get to the bottom. Of the trails I have hiked (Hermit, Bright Angel, and South Kaibab, so far) South Kaibab was my favorite route to descend. There are lots of places that offer superb views and in particular great views of the Colorado River as you descend. South Kaibab was also fun because it is less popular and crowded than Bright Angel, likely due to our early start time and the lack of water on the trail. Of the corridor trails it is definitely my new favorite.

The hike overall was superb, and I was very glad to have finally done it. Previously I had hiked to Indian Gardens and Plateau Point as day hikes with different groups that got turned back from a full rim to river and back in a day hike for various reasons. I also did a 3-day backpacking trip to the Colorado river down Hermit Trail and was eager to get redemption for the past unsuccessful attempts. This was the day, and it was excellent. I would do it all again in a heartbeat and look forward to exploring the Grand Canyon some more in the future.

Hike Video:
[ youtube video ]

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Garden Creek Light flow Light flow

water 1 out of 5water 2 out of 5water less than maxwater less than max Pipe Creek Light flow Light flow
_____________________
 
Nov 07 2020
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 Guides 3
 Routes 632
 Photos 8,235
 Triplogs 604

54 male
 Joined Apr 13 2011
 Gilbert, AZ
South Kaibab-Bright Angel Rim-to-River, AZ 
South Kaibab-Bright Angel Rim-to-River, AZ
 
Hiking avatar Nov 07 2020
ddgrunningTriplogs 604
Hiking18.83 Miles 4,778 AEG
Hiking18.83 Miles   8 Hrs   11 Mns   2.51 mph
4,778 ft AEG      41 Mns Break
 
1st trip
Route Scout Route Recorded  on Route Scout | Pop | Map | Popup | MapDEX
This was a family trip organized by a close friend, who invited me and my daughter to tag along. The friend and his son wanted to do the SK-BA loop, while his wife and younger kids planned to hike down to Indian Garden and meet us there to hike back out together.

We headed up Friday evening to Tusayan and stayed the night at the Red Feather Inn. Set the alarm for 4:15 a.m.

Temperatures looked relatively mild for November (overnight low was only in the mid 40s), so I opted to go with shorts, and left the thermal shirt in the car. That turned out to be a good call, as the weather was fantastic all the way up to the very last stretch, when rain/hail moved in ....

The four of us doing the SK-BA loop arrived at the BCO at 5:30, as the first hiker express shuttle to SK TH was set for 6 a.m. (with additional shuttles scheduled on the hour at 7 and 8 am). Because of COVID, they are only allowing 15 people per shuttle. There was one other group of 10 that had arrived in front of us, but behind us, there were probably another 45-50 people who were "in line" by 6 a.m.

We were glad we got there early and got on the first shuttle. The shuttle operator had done some thinking ahead, in that they had a couple of shuttles show up at 6 a.m., but I think those at the back of the line likely waited awhile before they were able to make it to the TH.

When we arrived at the TH, we wasted no time and hit the trail just in front of a mule train at about 6:20 am. We stayed in front of the train to Ooh Ahh Point, and then they passed us. Luckily, the train was relatively small and they were moving at a decent clip, so we didn't end up having to eat their dust :-).

Although it was light at Ooh Ahh Point, the sun didn't crest the rim from our vantage point until we were below Cedar Ridge. The sunrise was beautiful, particularly as it reflected off the opposing canyon walls.

On the way down, I marked the spot where the miner's trail veers off from SK and popped off the trail a bit to check out the upper portion. Looks like challenge. One I'll tackle on another trip. Speaking of other trips, I also decided I need to get up O'Neill Butte one of these days as well.

At the Tip Off, I was surprised to see the new shade shelter structure that's been erected (at least new since my last visit a couple years back). A solid structure with two tanks of water that can be treated by those in need. They are designed to collect runoff from the roof of the structure, but I'm not sure if that's the only way they would get water in them, or if there are filled otherwise. I didn't test the taps ...

Speaking of water, there was a problem with the pipe, so the only points where treated water was available were Phantom Ranch and Indian Garden.

As a result, we made a side trip to Phantom just to make sure we were good. In the end, it probably wasn't necessary, but a nice little jog along the way--particularly for my friend who had never been there. While in the area, I looked at the bottom of the Utah Flats route (also on a future agenda), and that approach looks a little daunting. Although I know the route/trail is there, it's not very obvious ...

The river trail and up BA were as usual. It was nice to have shade and light cloud cover most of the way.

At IG, we met up with the rest of the family. At that point, the darker, heavier clouds were beginning to roll in.

The weather held nicely till about 1.5 resthouse, when it started to sprinkle lightly. With about 0.5 to go, the rain started to come down in earnest, mixed with hail, and the wind picked up on the rim.

We donned the ponchos and headed straight for hot chocolate when we topped out.

Another great day in the canyon. This old place never gets old to me.
_____________________
 
Nov 11 2017
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 Guides 3
 Routes 632
 Photos 8,235
 Triplogs 604

54 male
 Joined Apr 13 2011
 Gilbert, AZ
SK-BA Loop Old BA Battleship, AZ 
SK-BA Loop Old BA Battleship, AZ
 
Hiking avatar Nov 11 2017
ddgrunningTriplogs 604
Hiking20.07 Miles 11,028 AEG
Hiking20.07 Miles   9 Hrs   30 Mns   2.25 mph
11,028 ft AEG      35 Mns Break
 
1st trip
Former work colleague planned a SK-BA loop trip for Veterans Day and invited me to join. I told him it was a deal if I could bring my son along. :)

We arrived in the park on Friday around 4 pm and headed straight to Shoshone Point for a quick stretch of the legs and a little solitude on the rim.

As the sun was setting, we returned to the Shoshone Pt. TH and over to check in at Maswick Lodge for the night. The dining area was surprisingly full for dinner. Went with the pulled pork and mashed potatoes. Helpings were generous. I normally like the mashed potatoes, but they were a bit on the runny side this time around.

At 5:15 a.m., called the taxi/shuttle, which took us to the SK trailhead. The bus schedule suggested no bus service till 7 a.m., so we were a bit surprised to find a couple dozen hikers milling around the TH and a bus leaving the TH at about 5:45(?)

In any event, we jumped right on the trail and began our descent in the dark. It was a bit crowded at the start, but folks spread out within the first mile or so.

The wind (and blowing dust) was crazy at the top and continued to be a pain until we dropped below Cedar Ridge. From then on, the weather was fantastic! Shorts were the order of the day, with the temps in the bottom and up through Indian Garden and up top in the low 60s.

Some guy had set up his tent and camped at the Tip Off. Not sure whether he cleaned up camp before the ranger arrived ...

Saw a few bighorn sheep on the SK below Tip Off.

As we neared the Black Bridge and the River Trail junction, I was thinking of the news story earlier this summer of a ER doctor from Texas who "made a wrong turn" and ended up passing away from heat-related issues. I'm always saddened by such stories and left with many more questions than answers. :-(

On this day, however, heat was not an issue.

After crossing the Black Bridge, my son and I veered upstream to check out the gauging station, and the hand-powered tramline. It was worth a look.

Stopped for "second breakfast" (9:30 a.m.) at the picnic table past the restroom/water spigot on the way to the Silver Bridge. Read the sign indicating that water had been turned of at the resthouses on BA, so the only other water was at IG.

Hit the trail for the climb up. The Colorado was running a deep, beautiful green color.

At the bottom of Devil's Corkscrew, my son wanted to take Old BA, so up we went and then continued up the drainage to its intersection with the Tonto, before dropping in to Indian Garden. The Old BA is still fairly distinct in many stretches, but about 1/4 mi. short of the Tonto intersection, we lost track of the old trail, and just continued up the wash, knowing we'd hit the Tonto eventually.

At IG, we were feeling great and decided to follow through on a side-trip out to the Battleship on the way out. Neither of us had been out there. We had the HAZ route downloaded on Route Scout, which was helpful, but even so, we often found ourselves bouncing around above and below various ledges. Seems like we were consistently hovering around 5380 ft., but always seem to be tempted to go up, rather than down when given the choice. There are cairns here, there, and in various places that are moderately helpful, but it was difficult to string more than two or three of them together at any stretch. At some point, we just plodded through as best we could navigate. As expected, the going was a bit slow. Along the way, my son was attacked by a yucca and ended up with a 1/2" spine in his finger. :o Leatherman pliers came in handy ....

Once we hit the "bridge," the route was more clear until the turn up to the final climb up Battleship. Here, Route Scout was very helpful.

My son chimney-ed up the crack; I was able to climb up with out chimney-ing. I didn't think the exposure at this spot was concerning at all.

The views from the point of the Battleship were awesome. We signed the log book, rested a bit and then headed back. Hoped for a condor siting, but no dice this time. We made quicker time on the return trip, and it seemed that cairns were more helpful heading that direction.

By the time we got back to the 2 mi. switchback on BA, we were so happy to be done bushwhacking/route-finding that we happily tackled the remaining 1,400 ft. climb with gusto, knocking out the last two miles in a little over 20 minutes, each.

As we motored through the final tunnel about 1/4 mi. from the top, caked with 20 miles of grime, bobbing and weaving around those content to just dip their toe below the rim, and clearly on a mission to finish the trip, we still somehow managed to win the lottery and were selected by a couple of rim-hugging tourist to take their photo. My son graciously obliged, but I secretly held a little grudge, since our exit time was 9 hours, 30 min., rather than "sub-9:30." Ok, just joking. :lol: It was not that big a deal, but I really was surprised that of all the normal tourists, this gal asked the grimy, sweaty, hikers streaking to the top to stop and take their photo ...

After hot showers at Mather Campground, we packed up and headed back to the valley, another great GC adventure in the books.
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  2 archives
May 21 2016
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 Guides 3
 Routes 632
 Photos 8,235
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54 male
 Joined Apr 13 2011
 Gilbert, AZ
South Kaibab-Bright Angel Loop, AZ 
South Kaibab-Bright Angel Loop, AZ
 
Hiking avatar May 21 2016
ddgrunningTriplogs 604
Hiking16.87 Miles 5,777 AEG
Hiking16.87 Miles   9 Hrs   9 Mns   2.36 mph
5,777 ft AEG   2 Hrs   1 Min Break
 
This trip served many purposes: (1) an end-of-the-school-year/start of summer trip for my younger kids; (2) a fitness test for our upcoming backpacking trip on the Inca Trail in Peru next month ( :y: ); (3) one more trip on our National Parks pass before it expires; (4) a chance to get my 21-year-old daughter below the rim to the Colorado (the last of our 5 to do so); and, perhaps most important, (5) a chance to meet the guy she has been dating and "audition" him for the role of boyfriend (and perhaps something more) :lol: :kf: . I can't think of a better way to get to know someone than spending 8-9 hours with them on the trail in one of the seven natural wonders of the world. :D

So, I took Friday off work and we headed out early from Phoenix. We planned two stops along the way--an exploration of the Slate Lakes Lava Cave, as well as a quick trip to Red Mountain. Both ended up being fun side adventures, for which I wrote up separate, brief triplogs.

After our side trips, we dropped by the Ten-X campground south of Tusayan, where we would camp for the night, and scoped out our spot. Then, we headed into the park and out to the Desert View Watchtower, where we would meet up with my daughter and her boyfriend, who were driving down from southern Utah.

I had never been to the Watchtower before. It's a pretty impressive structure, as were the views. As for presumptive boyfriend, he greeted me with a handshake, but hugs all around for my wife and other kiddos. :-k

After Desert View, we stopped at Lipan and Grandview points on our way back. I let boyfriend lead on the drive, and we all took bets in our car how fast he would drive. Would he go the speed limit? I placed my bet on 5 mph over--enough not to be an annoying stickler, but not so fast as to leave the impression he couldn't be trusted with my daughter's safety. My prediction played out--50 in a 45mph. :lol:

After enjoying the views, which were slightly hazy due to some control burns and perhaps the wind whipping up dust, we made our way over to the Backcountry Office, where we parked boyfriend's car. He and my daughter then piled into our Suburban and we headed back to the Ten-X campground.

We set up tents, and my 13-yo son was a good sport to volunteer to be BF's tent mate for the night. We enjoyed dinner, s'mores, and conversation around the campfire, as the full moon rose over the campground. Encouragingly, BF seemed to have a good sense of humor and reasonable intelligence.

After a pleasant night's sleep, we broke camp and were on the road by 7 am. Parked in the Visitor's Center parking lot, took the shuttle to the South Kaibab TH, and hit the trail shortly after 8 am. I had been down SK on a couple of other occasions on the first leg of a R2R, but had always begun before daylight. So, I was looking forward to seeing something more than a sign at "Ooh Ahh" point other than pitch darkness. Ironically, the sign was missing at the point, but the views weren't ;) .

The descent was steep but beautiful. The only downside was the volume of hikers on the trail (on my early morning R2R trips, I typically see only one or two other hikers before Phantom Ranch). I think my favorite views along SK are just below Tip Off, where the the River first comes into view and you have that sweeping trail view of the dark red/magenta rock leading down into the inner canyon. :y:

The river was running green and beautiful. We crossed the black bridge and headed over to the BA bathroom where we filled up on water; the girls enjoyed flush toilets; and we wandered up Bright Angel Creek, where we cooled our feet off in the creek, while enjoying lunch in the shade of the cottonwoods.

After lunch, we headed over the Silver Bridge, after which my youngest son and daughter (13 and 12) decided we were not moving along fast enough and took off. We didn't see them again till the top (they beat us by well over an hour).

Pipe Creek was running stronger than I had previously seen, and the BA drainage was quite lush and green.

I decided to take the old Devil's Corkscrew up Old BA, just to shake things up a bit. BF manned up and decided to come with me. I enjoyed the diversion. We rejoined the "new" trail where it intersected with Old BA. I've wanted to take Old BA all the way up to Tonto, but I was torn by the desire to explore the cascades of Garden Creek, off to the side of the "new" trail, as it rounds the prominence and circles back towards Indian Gardens. The latter option won out, and my oldest and BF joined me in the short side-trip down to the cascades. The water was running strong and the several "jacuzzi" pools proved irresistable. I tried each of them out for good measure and was very much refreshed. Meanwhile, BF and my daughter laughed at my enthusiasm and chased down lizards on the surrounding rocks.

The three of us caught up with my wife and third daughter at Indian Gardens. The approach to IG was again lush and green. There were a ton of hikers milling around IG and I found out later from my two youngest that, while they were there, the wind broke loose a large branch from the cottonwood tree that stands next to the water fountain and came crashing down on the fountain. Luckily, no one was injured.

The rest of the hike out was uneventful, though I'm always amazed at how long those last couple of miles seem ....

We topped out to the applause of our two youngest and then it was over to the Mather campground for showers and back to Maswick Lodge for dinner.

BF proved himself to be a strong hiker, enjoyable company, and basically a nice guy. And even though he's still clearly out of his league, and despite a semi-awkward "bro-hug" as we parted :stop: , I guess I'll let this relationship continue for now (... as if I had a choice :-$ ). After all, my wife and father-in-law took a pretty big chance on me 24 years ago ;) , so I guess the least I can do is pass that chance onto the next generation of basically nice guys.
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  1 archive
average hiking speed 2.34 mph

WARNING! Hiking and outdoor related sports can be dangerous. Be responsible and prepare for the trip. Study the area you are entering and plan accordingly. Dress for the current and unexpected weather changes. Take plenty of water. Never go alone. Make an itinerary with your plan(s), route(s), destination(s) and expected return time. Give your itinerary to trusted family and/or friends.

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