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| no partners | | Great summit with spectacular views! 8 hours camper to camper. Friendly climbing, sketchy pro, tedious raps.
Last year we had, what turned out to be our most physical day in the desert. Eagletail- north feather. Standing on top, we were inspired by the imposing monolith that rises 1,300 feet above the desert floor to the north. We knew then- we had another objective.
The technical climbing on courthouse is straight forward and the belay stations were easy to find. The protection was another matter. I led all pitches, and I placed pro at every opportunity- but this route was pretty hard to protect. I kept placing pro that would probably hold a light fall, only to go 30 to 40 feet before finding another marginal placement. However, it did seem that the cruxy bits were above the best pro, so hellyeah bring a rack. Lastly, despite the very easy climbing, this would be a bad climb for a new leader. There are not many opportunities to place pro, so not much learning. Furthermore, to be led safely the route must be well within your climbing ability.
As we roped-up at the base of the route it started to rain. Hmmm... We decided to take it one pitch at a time. During the 2-1/2 hours it took us to climb the 5 lower pitches the weather improved slightly. Another hour put us on the summit, by which time the weather had substantially cleared. There were just a few stray and distant showers brushing around the desert floor. The raps were slowed (a lot) by us painstakingly avoiding cholla -and we did. We did pull down several small rocks with ropes.
Hands down, this is the best route beta:
http://www.dankat.com/swhikes/courth.htm
I would just add that there is a big cairn near the base of the summit pitch and that the path over to it starts from pretty much right in the saddle. Also, in case you are wondering, the actual summit IS the huge thumb foreground right.
Ginger the dog did not summit. Cholla, safety. |
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