DESTINATION Generic 216 Photosets
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| Grand Gulch-Collins Spring to San Juan River, UT | |
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| | Grand Gulch-Collins Spring to San Juan River, UT | | | |
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Grand Gulch-Collins Spring to San Juan River, UT
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| Backpack | 35.00 Miles |
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| | Backpack | 35.00 Miles | 4 Days | | |
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| no partners | | 2007 I wrote that the area from Redman Canyon to Shaw arch was some of the most beautiful canyon hiking I had ever done. Since I can't find my photo dvd from that time I couldn't refresh my memory of the area. This time I wanted to try to get to the San Juan River, I knew I might have trouble in the final mile with a sketchy high trail in loose stuff around a pour off. I don't like heights esp on loose terrain. My previous trip had been more side canyon exploring. This trip I wanted to revisit some stellar rock art and try to find a pristine ruin I was able to find existed via research, but respecting the authors of the trips I read, no directions to this special place was given. I had the hint of a large area and a photo and that was it.
It was stormy with wind, rain, hail etc on the way to Collins Spring TH. The ranger station was closed so following instructions on the door, I filled out a day permit envelope, stuffed money in it and wrote on the envelope I was in four days Collins to the San Juan and back.
A few cars at the TH, most SUV but one small low slung car had made it, I was impressed. I saddled up and strolled down the trail, visited the cowboy camp then to the confluence and down the canyon. Water can be a problem in this stretch. I saw a few pools here and there from the previous storm, but the main wash was bone dry. Lots of globe mallow, cactus and other flowers blooming and birds singing and the green cottonwoods. It was chilly and the main event for the rain was to be today. The clouds and sun fought and the clouds won, closing in. Not too many ruins in this end of Grand Gulch, and because your options are in and out this end is traveled fairly lightly even in the busy spring hiking season. I stashed my pack under a small ledge, and started the slickrock scramble up to a major rock art panel. Right before this I had visited the panel of 100 hands, spread out so hard to photograph them all. It started to rain lightly. The ledge was overhung so I was good. I walked, sat, made photos and looked at the interesting panel, some of the humanoid figures about 4 feet tall, some nice bird renditions. Monster looking stuff. The rain was getting with the program, and now my attention drawn to small waterfalls flowing down the slickrock. I had a rainshell on. However I was a little concerned about getting down the rock ledge system, the last part was steep and I had barely been able to get on the lip standing on a shaky rock bollard other hikers had made. But the rain would alleviate the water situation. I had good traction and managed to get down the last part without knocking the rocks over. My poor pack was resting between two small waterfalls. I got the better raingear on and continued on. Tired, cold and a little wet already I finally found an alcove on the wrong side ( no archeo) and decided my first night camp here.
It had several logs I propped up on the side and hung my wet poncho and pants on. I was planning on cowboy camping, as in the Cedar Mesa if you can't find some sort of shelter something is wrong. The only reason you need a tent is wind or bugs. I had a bivy and did use it for some protection from wind.
I so enjoyed the few hours in my sand floored alcove watching it rain in full protection. I must be crazy, I like inclement weather and the joys it can bring if you are prepared. As I was setting up camp a new sound came beyond the wind and rain, running water! The canyon was flashing--albeit low level. I missed the head waters as I ran out with camera realized I had my down shell on and it was getting wet, rats, back to get an umbrella. Wet vegetation, getting wet again, rats-- did take one unimpressive picture of the full wash, would mean anything only if one had seen the dry rocky previous version. I wasn't worried about the water getting too high, this system just didn't seem to have that much steam in it and would move out quickly. I had my supper and waited for the rain to wind down , which it did. Fortunately I had obtained some water from a pothole prior to the flood so didn't have to deal with silty flood water. I slept very well, and morning had that clear, cool crispness to the air post storm, that wonderful clarity to the light. I packed up and hiked, very near Redman canyon and looking forward to the huge slickrock hallway I sort of remembered. It was magical with the still flowing water, finding channels and pools to navigate in the large apron of slickrock. The use trail used the benches to avoid just such a situation and I had no trouble keeping feet dry.
The canyon has a few grainery's here and there, but it's mostly about the canyon thru here. It narrows and is lush, the trail is hidden in green grasses above my knees. Some impressive stream side alcoves. Large cottonwoods close in and the trail in places winds beneath them, and in and out of the wash. But my water is short lived, the flood very local, and in places the wash wide and sandy and has already absorbed the water, and once again a few pools here, and there. Shaw arch is next up, and it's plethora of rock art. There is good water in this area. I photograph again my favorite stylistic hand prints, drop my pack and walk around. More to go. I travel downcanyon, checking out some alcoves, I remember one that seemed significant but the remains were unexcavated. So far turning up zilch. I got more water from a pothole. A high small alcove with an old fire ring was the next camp. No archeo so acceptable and a large rock had fallen into the main area providing more shelter from wind. I was camping early but needed a break from the ankle twisting sand hiking. I was wearing an ankle brace on my right ankle which was proving helpful. My days of off trail and backpacking are limited. 15 years ago xrays on that ankle " severe degenerative joint disease, osteophytes ( bone spurs) multiple old stress fractures, ununited ossicles ( free floating fragments). Well one day I will have it fused and hopefully can do some hiking. Or I will simply become a horse or mule packer and river runner.
I rested up , reading and listening to birds and sitting on a ledge watching the light up and down the canyon. I went down to get more water for camp from potholes. Tomorrow I would take a day pack to the river and do some more exploring. Another good night ---I tend to sleep very well when I am backpacking--- then up and out leaving camp secured. Below Shangri-La ( side canyon named by the Kane Gulch rangers) water ran from an apparent spring. Beautiful area. The rules are no camping within a mile of the San Juan, the river runners stop there and camp and sometimes hike up aways. This area is spectacular with huge walls, more slickrock hallways and several big rock falls choking the canyon and making it a little challenge to get through. The canyon drops, the first good sized pour off easily passed but careful on the steep angled sandstone. The final bouldery pour off has a bypass trail on crumbly red rock right LDC. I stood on the rock bollard and couldn't pull myself up and my boots weren't good at smearing on the smooth wall. I wasn't that motivated truthfully. When solo I don't push myself as much as when I am hiking with my partner Brian. So the San Juan view evaded me but I didn't care. I turned back upcanyon in the cold wind.
Rambling back to camp I checked out some side options. I was now thinking of getting back to camp and moving up back closer to the arch area, for the hike out. I was walking and then it came into sight after thinking this area another dud. It was perfect in every way, the presentation, the simplicity of the approach. A large and fairly pristine kiva, with the original Anasazi ladder still there ( I had read this ) and generally accepted in the hiking community who knew of this kiva one did not enter. I am sure this thing has been pot hunted, but not many recent footprints here. Lots of large pottery shards, corn cobs, etc. Deep, looked at least 12 feet to the bottom, no footprints I could see. A few prints on the roof by some moron. I stuck a camera in to try to get a shot of the inside roof; it did not turn out. Doesn't matter. What a great place and privilege for me to be here. I felt blessed. I will likely never return here, but I am glad I got to see this.
I moved camp up to near the arch, not my best alcove camp but it would do. The next morning things were warming up. I was amazed at how quickly the water was evaporating or swallowed into the sand. There are several large potholes off some side canyons the trail will deviate to take you near which would be handy in dry times. I checked a few areas I missed on the way in including a large rock art panel, and took an old high trail that ended up with me downclimbing a small tree and sliding down a 10 foot slick rock ledge, fun with a backpack. I mounted the trail in Collins and met a young man with two small children , maybe 5 and 4 years old, he with an enormous pack. Those kids were dirty and having a blast. My Toyota still there, and I signed out, to drive to a cold nights' car camp off hwy 95 near White canyon and ponder my next move. So glad I returned and hopefully will have the picture memories now and forever. |
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