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| Hiking | 47.50 Miles |
10,200 AEG |
| | Hiking | 47.50 Miles | 19 Hrs 43 Mns | | 2.41 mph |
| 10,200 ft AEG | | 12 LBS Pack | | |
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| no partners | | I have wanted to do this hike for a long time. The dreaded rim to rim to rim. I guess I just wanted to do this because it was there.
Started at the South Kaibab trail head at 7 am. A late start but within the parameters I setup. I wanted to be back at the first pump house at the bottom of the North Kaibab trail by dark. A relatively uneventful hike to Phantom ranch. The trail was much rougher than I remembered. Someone said the summer rains were heavy and trashed the trails. I thought it doesn't rain that much in the canyon but I'll get back to that. Hiked to Cottonwood then to the north rim. Again, relatively uneventful. There was a large crowd of people cheering anyone that came up the north side. I did a 8:30 south to north and I allotted 10 hours. I was too fast but feeling good. Changed shirts and ate my PB&J sandwich. Thanks to the people on top for helping me out. I started back down and was rushing a bit as my plan was getting off the north side before dark. At Roaring Springs I twisted my knee and it hurt pretty good. I recovered for a few minutes and the pain subsided, took two Advil and proceeded on. I got to Cottonwood at 7:30, making good time but slower because of the knee. I took an inventory of food and realized I was a bit short. I was eating too much going up the north side due to my speed. I could make Phantom Ranch by 10, I can restock an bit and enjoy a Lemmy..... I was hiking back to Phantom Ranch and it was dark.... pitch black. I was alone with all sorts of thoughts running around my head. Then it started to sprinkle a bit which I appreciated because the bugs were following my headlamp and flying into my face. The loneliness was getting to me.... I was over thinking everything out of boredom and driving myself nuts. I made it to Phantom Ranch ay 10:30 and they were closed. The knee really was slowing me down. I saw two girls in the kitchen and banged on the window and begged for some food. She returned with a bag filled with a variety of bars and nuts that other hikers left behind. I thanked her profusely and started for the south side. I made it across the bridge and it was raining harder. I made it to Devils Corkscrew and it was raining so hard my headlamp was blinding me as it reflected off the rain. The trail was flooded and now running pretty fast but not impassable. The logs in the trail that the mules use were slippery so I had to walk in the middle of the trail which was now one pool of water after the next. My boots were now filled with water and I could feel my toes rubbing together. Not good. I had extra socks but it was raining so hard and my boots were so wet, it wouldn't made a difference. I kept going, stopping only to change batteries. I finally made it to Indian Gardens about 1:30. Slower still because the knee was hurting pretty bad. I did do a little dance because I made it to Indian Gardens and the rain finally let up enough to take off the shell. I started up the hill looking for the first pump house. My knee was really slowing me down and at some point I thought I past it, someone stole it or they move it. That loneliness thing again. Finally, I found it and had only 3 more miles to go. My energy level was good but the knee was starting to swell up again. I was on my way to the second pump house and it took forever to get there. I kept telling myself it was just around the next switch back which lead me getting frustrated. This, in turn turn, caused me to become somewhat paranoid. I was officially getting loopy. I was tired at this point and just wanted to be done. I shook out the cob webs reading the signs at the last pump house and thinking about resting in the car. I started off for the top and I was getting frustrated over the knee. I had the energy to faster but the knee wouldn't let me. At one point I thought I was lost. I stopped, pulled out the cell phone and called up the Strava app to see where I was. Yup, a blue dot in a green field. This did not make me feel any better. But I realized that: 1. I was still going up 2. I still smelled mule poop and 3. I read all the signs at the pump house so I couldn't be lost. Ok, cob webs gone again.. off I went. I saw a bunch of lights coming down the trail... hikers getting an early start.... someone to talk to. I started to waive and yell hello only to realize it was 6 deer on the ridge above me. Their eyes were glowing from my light. I did stop and talk to them and while they didn't answer, they did stop and listen. This gave me enough to finish. I made it to the trail head about 3:30. Did a little dance and headed back to the car which was parked by the back country office. Got there, got a cold drink and took a nap until 8 and drove home.
I like hiking alone in the dark. I hike Camelback every Wednesday morning in the summer at 3:30 or 4 am. It's great. I've hiked Humphrys in the dark many times and its a blast. Even in the snow. I never thought that being alone in the canyon would affect me the way it did. The long time alone and the tiredness combined is a powerful drug. The iPod kept me sane and thankfully the battery lasted almost the entire trip. Stopping and reading EVERY sign also helped. People ask me would I do this again. I say no but in reality, as soon as my toenails grow back, I'd do it again. Maybe not alone but I'd do it again. It was a satisfying feeling getting back to the car, sitting in the seat and watching the Monday AM hikers get on the bus. I was wet and every muscle in my legs was screaming at me. But I had fun. I did something that most other over 50 year olds only see on a TV nature channel. It still brings a smile to my face. |
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