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| South Kaibab and Bright Angel Loop, AZ | |
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| | South Kaibab and Bright Angel Loop, AZ | | | |
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South Kaibab and Bright Angel Loop, AZ
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| Backpack | 18.00 Miles |
5,000 AEG |
| | Backpack | 18.00 Miles | 2 Days | | |
| 5,000 ft AEG | | 20 LBS Pack | | |
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| no partners | | Nancy and I hiked down South Kaibab Saturday, stayed at Phantom Ranch that night, and hiked out on Bright Angel Sunday. Although we, especially Nancy about 12x, backpacked Havasupai many times, this was only Nancy's 3rd trip into the Canyon. We previously backpacked Hermit to Tonto to Indian Gardens to South Rim for 3 days about 30 years ago and hiked down Bright Angel to Boat Beach with son Max in 2005 for a 7-night rafting trip with AZRA. I've backpacked in the Grand Canyon NP many times with friends over the years. This triplog is significant as kind of a first for Nancy and a birthday hurrah for me. Nancy got a one-night Phantom Ranch reservation 3 weeks ago. She wanted to stay Phantom Ranch for years and I wanted a 79th birthday (5/22) present with Nancy.
triplog: Drove up Friday and stayed at Maswick with dinner in El Tovar dining room. Early morning taxi to South Kaibab trailhead and hike down on Saturday. Stayed in dorms and steak dinner at Phantom Ranch Saturday (& Sunday breakfast). Hiked out Sunday on Bright Angel and enjoyed deviled eggs w/bacon & a drink in Bright Angel Lodge Bar that afternoon. Stayed at Best Western Premier Grand Canyon Squire Inn in Tusayan Sunday night and had a superb Mexican dinner at Plaza Bonita. Drove home Monday. No injuries. Sore legs. Did Havasupai shuffle Sunday and Monday!
NOTES:
Maswick Lodge is excellent. Everything works. Vast parking and can leave the car there while hiking. Short walk to/from Bright Angel Trailhead and other lodges and restaurants on the South Rim.
El Tovar Dining is traditional. Our 5th or so dinner there. Miss the Ringtails on the beams. I say do it. But as with most classic NP restaurants, ain't what it used to be. Did have venison though!
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South Kaibab Trail was hard. Wowza views but far too dangerous to look while walking. Nancy had knee therapy last summer including stem cells so used 2 poles and was very cautious. She could have drunk more water. I hike 2-3x per week in South Mountains with one pole and did same here. Glad we did it. Will not do it again. BTW, there are no poor views at the GC, just different ones.
Phantom Ranch was fine. I understand fewer than 1% of Grand Canyon visitors venture below the rim (Thank the Lord!) Must be a really tiny portion of the 1% who get to the River let alone sleep at Phantom Ranch. We thoroughly enjoyed the camaraderie of all the visitors and staff. What a superb bunch and vibrancy! And “Oh WoW!” there were half a dozen AZ Trail Riders carrying their bikes across the corridor trails on the AZ Trail! And I thought hiking was hard! Even met a small family from Nancy’s dad’s hometown and same high school in Ohio!
Phantom Ranch Meals were huge and good and great fellowship.
Phantom Ranch Dorms were amazing! First time I stayed in a dorm. Very comfortable (bunk) beds and bedding, a real toilet, hot water shower and wash basin, all inside each air-conditioned dorm. Knocked my socks off!
Ranger Programs – We didn’t attend any but I must say they have always been interesting to me and well worthwhile. We were just too beat and enjoying talking with other hikers about their experiences and origins Etc.
Bright Angel Trail is attractive because of Garden Creek and the upper canyon drainages. Gotta love the riparian areas’ contrast to dessert and ridgeline areas and trails (like South Kaibab). Surprised to learn there’s no water above Indian Garden. Fortunately, we had enough to get out safely. Nancy was much faster and better hydrated on the way out. I was the slow one going uphill.
Bright Angel Lodge Bar has always been my destination coming out on Bright Angel. Think about beer or pop, onion rings, and other hiker groups! No onion rings any more and only one other couple that we met on the trail. Still …… Tradition!
Best Western Premier Grand Canyon Squire Inn in Tusayan was ridiculous. We will never stay there again. Bed had been slept in and covered up. Tub/shower is the 2nd most dangerous I have seen in all the hotels and motels I have stayed in over 5 decades. None-existent manager. Staff untrained in customer service. $280 for the room. All the signs of a captive market. Baaa.
Plaza Bonita Mexican restaurant in Tusayan was terrific! Take some time with the menu and talk to the server. This plain looking place that we almost skipped turned out to be the real thing. Excellent choices of some fine Mexican dishes (plus all the tourist food), a full bar, and attentive and swift service. We’ll be back!
Hope this lengthy review helps some make better choices.
BTW our weather was near perfect. Rain top-to-bottom was forecast for the day after we left! See photo set. |
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Wildflowers Observation Light
Flowers were starting up at this time. |
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