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| Camino de Santiago-Day 2 San Juan de Ortega, WW | |
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| | Camino de Santiago-Day 2 San Juan de Ortega, WW | | | |
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Camino de Santiago-Day 2 San Juan de Ortega, WW
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| Hiking | 7.85 Miles |
872 AEG |
| | Hiking | 7.85 Miles | 3 Hrs 56 Mns | | 2.85 mph |
| 872 ft AEG | 1 Hour 11 Mns Break | | | |
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| no partners | | Camino de Santiago/Camino Francés - Day Two from Villafranca Montes de Oca to San Juan de Ortega, our first big hike. First, we had to ride the bus for 45 minutes; we had driven by here the day before. And, per usual, we had the Coffee Routine where there was a choice of two different stores, all of them the bar/coffee shop combo. At each stop a long the way, we would also get a stamp in our Camino passport. It would always be interesting to see what was chosen as the logo.
I just finished the videos for Day 2 two days ago (technically Day 3 of the Road Scholar tour). In fact, I haven't seen many of my videos from the trip yet, so it's fun to re-live the awesome experience; even in inclement weather. Today, however, it was sunshine the entire way and ending with some beautiful whispy clouds as we entered San Juan de Ortega.
At Villafranca we started a little after 10AM by the Church, of course (just like yesterday and we would end at a church, just like yesterday). The chapel is called Our Lady of the Goose. The goose reference ties it strongly to the traditional Game of the Goose. Some say it is a sacred Templar map of the Camino de Santiago. The game is marked with significant places. A labyrinth may warn of a confusing trail. Or it could warn you to be wary of losing your moral compass. The Camino is an inward as well as outward journey.
The first part of this hike was UP, but a reasonable grade on a road. We would pass by the cemetery and then be hiking near the Arroyo Carrascosa; although we really couldn't see it for the trees.
There were loads of Rose Hip and Spanish Heath (mountain/autumn-like heather), almost the entire way. There were some fields on the one side of us too, with trees on the other side. We took a quick break at REST AREA FOR PILGRIMS "FOUNTAIN OF MOJAPÁN". I learned the story about this fountain just now, but it's too long to share (I did include it in the photo caption). Everything on this Camino seems to have a separate meaning, sometimes more than one.
We hiked through a more forested area with various trees and flora including lots of still-green ferns. Next up was the Monumento La Pedraja stone and cement monument, isolated on the top of a hill, with the following legend: "Monte de la Pedraja 1936. In this place about three hundred people were shot by those who supported the coup d'état of General Francisco Franco against the legitimately established Second Republic, which gave rise to the Spanish Civil War between 1936 and 1939.
I really didn't fully grasp this area until I got home. Well, honestly, I didn't know Spain had a civil war. Anyway, I will provide more info in the photos. We also visited the mass gravesite near the monument. This would be about the half-way point.
We would continue mostly via a tree-lined lane/road and the Spanish Heath was more pink here; had not turned brown like the east side. Someone had created quite the cairn in the middle of the path/road with a very long-stemmed arrow of rocks and then shorter arrows. We, of course, took a few pictures here. There was another couple along that was as ferocious at taking pictures/documenting our trip as me. I think they outdid me  . About ten minutes later there was a trail angel offereing food and drink. Ten minutes later we stopped for our plastic bag picnic lunch (that were made for us) at an area they call "The Oasis" where there are logs to sit, but not just any logs as these are painted with characters and designs.
We finished off the hike through more forest and past rain puddles along with the normal flora of the area including mushrooms. The trail opened up with views of a large sunflower field and you could see the tower of the church in the distance. However, what caught my eye were the fabulous wispy clouds as we entered San Juan de Ortega in the middle of the Montes de Oca. The sunflower field was walled which I found interesting and never heard why.
San Juan is a great story too. He was a disciple of San Domingo and they both were dedicated to the Camino helping to build and maintain buildings and the Camino. Here the buildings were originally a medieval monastery. San Juan's work did not end with his death on 2 June 1163, but continued for years to consolidate the monastic complex we see today. His mortal remains rest in the chapel of St Nicholas, which he built himself.
Just past the chapel is the old pilgrims hospital built at the end of the 15th century or beginning of 16th century, which is now a couple different hostels.
I went to Albergue La Cuadra de Luisito and asked them to give me their best beer  . The Alhambra Especial was quite good. We sat outside to enjoy our brew. I talked to a thru-hiking pilgrim from California. She was very nice. There were quite a few more people hiking the Camino than I thought there would be at this time of year. Afterward, we toured the Church and then the Chapel. The origin of this monastery is linked to the personality of the saint, who was concerned about the care, both material and spiritual, of walkers, as well as the gratuitousness of his service to them. See the pictures for interpretive info and stories.
And as usual, our ride back to Burgos was interesting as we passed by tenth-century Agés and the Iglesia de Santa Eulalia, with its beautiful baroque bell gable. The next interesting area we saw was a pilgrim checking out Megaliths erected to commemorate various stages of archeological discovery in the area, on the outskirts of Atapuerca (Their mountains of the same name is an archaeological site of prehistoric caves that are the source of the earliest human remains ever discovered in Europe, dating back over 900,000 years.)
After back in Burgos to freshen up, we walked to our group dinner through the squares and past the lit Burgos Cathedral, fabulous to see at nite. I don't remember the meal at Restaurante Puerta Real, but the apertif shots were quite fabulous. Another glorious day and nite of the Camino. Jealous yet , or too soon.
Day Three,
Part 1 Villafranca toward San Juan de Ortega [ youtube video ] including Monumento La Pedraja
Part 2 to San Juan de Ortega [ youtube video ]
Part 3 San Juan de Ortega to Burgos [ youtube video ] passing by Agés and Atapuerca, Spain
Temp at 11AM 44.9, slightly cloudy off and on, 82% humidity. |
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Wildflowers Observation Light
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For me, sometimes it's just as much about the journey as the destination.
Oh, and once in awhile, don't forget to look back at the trail you've traveled. |
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Route Editor
Route Scout
, or too soon.
