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I wait by the remote access gate to the reservation. I have a book and the usual for the wait. My acquaintance from the tribe and the local rancher drive up. We greet, make some small talk. This is the no fly zone on the reservation; for which permits are not granted. They give me permission, but ask I not drive onto the land, just where I can walk. I readily agree. I have hiked some of the periphery so I know some of what is here. I have also looked of course on the TOPO maps.
They drive away; I am surprised, I thought they would insist on monitoring me. Although the gate is unlocked, I honor my word, leave the FJ parked. The last time I was here a few years ago, the gate was not there, the fence half down and a big hand made sign "THE RES, GO HOME". It feels sort of silly to walk on the good road, a lot better than the rough ghetto way from the non res side.
The road rises and falls and it is heading to a canyon area. I spot cottonwoods. I don't have great expectations because it has been hot and dry and this is stark desert. I leave the road and take a side ravine, small and uninteresting. Suddenly it becomes very interesting when it opens up to a huge apron of slickrock, with small slickrock ramps feeding the deepening gully. This canyon receives significant drainage from a large area. I envision this as a paradise with heavy rains.
Abruptly I am at the main canyon. Water here, significant springs, not marked on the map. Cowed up and with the soup's on look but impressive considering where I am. I go downcanyon aways. Impressive water marks on some of the rock walls, big pools here in the rainy season, and not that long ago. Some nice cottonwoods, not a lot but a few are really big. Mesquite bosques that once you go in you feel the temp immediately drop.
The picture taking is not great but the feel of this area is what I hoped for. I think "monsoons!" and smile.
I walk back and now upcanyon, I know the road will cross my way. Colors and textures in the rock walls attractive. As I cross the road and continue upcanyon the walls narrow, and in the dirt I see the tracks of the desert bear, pretty good size. I walk beside the tracks for a little while, see them as he or she stops at the edge of the pool.
The sun is high and getting hot. Back to the road. I get to the Toyota and not there 15 min when the rancher pulls up.
He asks how was it. I said pretty good. I slyly mention the monsoons, how water might transform the area. He doesn't smile but says, you can come back then. I am grateful, but not especially counting on it. I do hope it can happen. |
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Route Editor
Route Scout
