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North Cascades Backpack, WA
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21,704 AEG |
| | Backpack | | 6 Days | | |
| 21,704 ft AEG | | | | |
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| no partners | | North Cascades NP came on my radar screen after visiting Congaree NP in South Carolina while attending a conference. Congaree indicated that it was one of the least visited NPs in the state, which led me to Google the other "least visited" NPs. Many on the list are far away (Alaska, American Samoa), which makes some sense. But North Cascades is in Washington State and when I googled it, the scenery looked amazing!
Further research indicated that: (a) there is only one road through the park; (b) the trails are largely difficult/steep, given the "young" age of the mountains, and so, if you want to explore much of this NP, you need to be willing to throw on a backpack and put in some work! It is also home to the largest number of glaciers in the lower 48 (even more that Glacier NP).
I immediately realized, this is my kind of place! 
So, I put in for a lottery at recreation.gov, and got an early access slot. I mapped out a few alternate itineraries, but ultimately ended up getting my first choice--a six-day, five-night, point-to-point between Cascade Pass TH and Easy Pass TH. My original thought was to go east to west (from Easy Pass to Cascade Pass), but the undisputed crown jewel on this trek--and arguably in the park, generally--is spending the night at the foot of Sahale Glacier at the alpine camp area there. As it worked out, I could get a spot there on the front end of my itinerary, but not the back end, so we reversed the direction of travel.
Coming from AZ, we rented a car, but needed to figure out a shuttle option. Our original plans fell through, but we miraculously got connected with some wonderful folks in the Methow Valley (Tom and his wife), who offered to shuttle us around from Easy Pass to Cascade Pass, and even borrowed a friend's car to accommodate our gear! The shuttle involved essentially a full day drive for them, but they were happy to oblige and refused any remuneration--only asking for a trip report and some photos after our trip. A truly gracious act of service that has helped my sometimes deteriorating faith in humanity!
Day 0: Travel to Seattle; Drive through North Cascades NP
After flying into Seattle, we picked up our rental car and drove to and through North Cascades NP to our overnight hotel/Airbnb in the small/quaint town of Winthrop, WA. Along the way, we stopped and did the short, Gorge Overlook Trail, and also stopped at the iconic Diablo Lake overlook. We arrived in Winthrop just before 8 pm--just in time to get dinner at the closing restaurants. Good food at the Old Schoolhouse Brewery. There is also a grocery store and gas station.
Day 1: Shuttle to Cascade Pass; Hike to Sahale Glacier Camp (~6 mi.; 4100 AEG)
The next morning, it was a 45 minute drive to Easy Pass TH from Winthrop, where we met our gracious shuttle driver, Tom, and travelled back through the park on Highway 20, including a second stop at the Diablo Lake overlook for a morning perspective. The bridge over the Skagit River at Marblemount was closed for construction (it's now open again), necessitating a longer detour through Rockport. The 20+ mile drive along Cascade River Road was fine in a Subaru with only one spot near the TH that had us getting out to navigate over a somewhat washed-out section.
I was shocked at how full (and overflowing) the relatively large Cascade Pass TH was on a Tuesday morning. I know this is one of the most popular trails in the park, but still on a weekday? I can only imagine how busy it is on the weekends! We were thankful that we were just being dropped off.
Finally ready to hit the trail, we said goodbye to Tom, shouldered our packs, and headed out--or more appropriately, UP! The trail to Sahale Glacier Camp climbs 4100 feet, in under 6 miles. With packs loaded for a 6-day trip, it was a worthy challenge.
The first part of the trail to Cascade Pass (where most day hikers turn around) is well constructed and consists of a lot of switchbacks, which keep the grade consistent. Within the first mile, we heard a large tree come crashing down off-trail above us. I don't know if it would have made a sound in our absence, but it certainly came through loud and clear in our presence! 
Just before the pass, we stopped for lunch as we were on the protected side of the pass and had heard from those descending that the wind was gale force from the Pass on up.
True to reports, when we hit Cascade Pass, the wind hit back! From there we climbed up Sahale Arm, where we were further blasted by the 40-50 mph winds. The work of elevation gain kept our core temperature in check, and with every step up, the views got more majestic.
In short order, we were able to see down to Doubtful Lake--an amazing alpine lake, fed by the Sahale Glacier. Its striking blue waters were mesmerizing, and we looked forward to making a side trip down to its shores on our return trip the following morning. The waterfall/cascade draining from the glacier fluctuated wildly throughout the day--in the morning, when melt from the glacier slowed overnight, the waterfall was small, but by late afternoon, its volume expanded significantly. We experienced this noticeable ebb/flow multiple times on the trip.
The final 0.5 mi. climb to the camp at the base of Sahale Glacier is mostly a choose-your-own adventure through the scree.
The campsites are circular rock shelters perched on high points with absolutely incredible views of the surrounding peaks, Sahale Glacier, and Doubtful Lake. There are around 6-7 areas to camp, but three "perches" that are the iconic spots.
After setting up camp on the first "perch," we explored the area and climbed on the receding glacier. We brought microspikes and poles, which helped navigate, but would be insufficient, given the steepness of the glacier, if your goal was to cross the glacier on the way to Sahale Peak.
Sunset and the following morning's sunrise from Sahale Glacier was pure magic.
Day 2: Sahale Glacier-Doubtful Lake-Horseshoe Basin-Basin Creek Camp
Overnight, the wind died down and we enjoyed a lovely, crisp morning, as we prepped for day two on the trail. Before leaving camp, I took a mandatory stop at, arguably, the most scenic bathroom facility on the planet.
We backtracked down Sahale Arm and then took the side trail descending to Doubtful Lake, for a swim. Amazing. Enjoyed our fill of blueberries along the way.
Post-swim, we climbed back up to the trail junction, shouldered our packs, and continued our descent to Cascade Pass, where we hung a left and headed toward Basin Creek. Shortly after the junction, we encountered our first black bear. He was several dozen yards away and paid us no mind. That said, he ended up mosey-ing down the trail in front of us, so it took us a bit to safely pass. It was fun to observe from a safe distance.
Continuing on, we took our second side trip of the day, ascending up Horseshoe Basin to the Black Warrior Gold Mine. Saw a marmot along the way and marveled at the multiple cascading waterfalls draining into Basin Creek. Wow! Pretty scenic mine site. The mine is closed off with a bat gate, but at the entrance are the remains of a structure and some informational signage. No trail up to the mine, so it was off-trail scrambling up and down.
Side trip completed, we made our final descent into Basin Creek camp, and shared tight quarters with two other groups. The site has a bear locker and a separate cooking area, which made for some good conversation and swapping of notes with another group, who were "locals" from the Seattle area that had failed to get a spot on Sahale Glacier. Basin Creek tumbles by the campsite with some lovely cascades (again, flowing strong in the afternoon; less so in the morning).
Day 3: Basin Creek-5 Mile Stock Camp.
Day 3 began with a relatively gentle and straightforward descent alongside the Stehekin River. About 4 miles were along a decommissioned road, which used to be serviced by shuttle from Stehekin, but was closed after a washout further downstream. Nature has reclaimed much of the road character, which was nice for the hiking ambiance.
At the turnoff for the Flat Creek trail, we took a break where a bridge spans the Stehekin at a lovely gorge/cascade area. We did a little swimming and enjoyed the crystal clear water before re-shouldering our packs for the work of the day--climbing up towards Park Creek Pass.
The Park Creek trail climbs steeply for a mile or so, then turns up the canyon and parallels and eventually crosses Park Creek, followed by another steep climb. The trail was great and, even when not steep, the elevation gain was steady.
A mile or so before our planned camp, we passed through a burn area, but we re-entered the forest just as we arrived at 5 mile horse camp. We were the only ones there and set up our tents right along the creek, with impressive views of Buckner Mountain/Glacier perfectly framed from our tent spot. We enjoyed some amazing views of evening glow on the mountaintops as the sun set.
Day 4: 5 Mile Camp to Junction Camp via Park Creek Pass and Thunder Basin
Our longest day on the trail, we began the day by resuming the strenuous climb to Park Creek Pass. Unfortunately, some smoke from nearby fires obscured the views a bit, but it was still beautiful. As we crossed over the scree-filled pass, we could hear the Pika squeaking in the rocks, but didn't see any.
On the backside of the Pass, we then descended steeply down the Thunder Creek side, passing a nice cascade just off trail. The trail after the first descent was a bit brushy, and at one spot, while rounding a corner, we surprised a black bear who was getting a drink in the stream. He was about 15 yards away, and the surprise was mutual. I reached simultaneously for my bear spray and my camera, but the bear was spooked and bolted in the opposite direction and then off into the brush. He was a beautiful specimen. I was only able to catch a short video of him hightailing it into the bushes.
Shortly thereafter, we forded Thunder Creek (calf deep). Once on the west side of the creek, recent trail maintenance made for much smoother sailing. This area is a lot more rain foresty, and there were plenty of varieties of colorful fungi about.
We passed the remains of the Skagit Queen Mine generator house following another steep descent, and then passed by a lovely trailside waterfall.
After losing all of our elevation, we paralleled Thunder Creek until the last two miles to Junction Camp, at which point we regained another steep 1000 feet. The directions to Junction Camp at then end of a long day weren't great, and we got turned around a bit trying to find the camp. Ultimately, we camped at the horse camp, which was fine, but not as scenic as the hiker camp, which was apparently a bit further beyond the Thunder Creek/Fisher Creek junction. Oh well! It had been two days since we'd seen another soul (other than the bear), so we had all available campsites at our disposal ....
Day 5: Junction Camp to Fisher Camp via Fisher Creek
Leaving Junction Camp, we crossed a couple of raised bridges/platforms, which were a testament to how wet this area gets. The ground near the camp was literally blanketed with thick, spongy moss-type growth through which a clear trail was cut.
About a mile from camp, we looked long and hard for the three-sided "Rock Cabin" that was supposedly near the trail, but were unable to locate it. There had been some avalanche/rock slide damages in recent years in that area, which resulted in some significant re-routing of the trail, but based on information from the NPS website, there is no indication that the cabin was damaged/destroyed. In any event, we couldn't find it. 
The rest of the day was mostly hiking under forest canopy. A couple of creek crossings (all bridged) at Logan Creek and near Cosho Camp. Just before arriving at Fisher Camp, the trees receded and the Fisher Basin and surrounding peaks came into view.
Given proximity now to Easy Pass TH and the fact that it was Saturday night, the three campsites at Fisher Camp were full and we prepared ourselves to re-integrate with human society again. The sites are pretty small, and only the smallest of them was left for our three tents. Luckily, a couple in one of the slightly larger spots graciously agreed to swap locations with us.
Day 6: Fisher Camp to Easy Pass TH
Overnight, our luck with the weather finally ran out, and it started raining around midnight. It drizzled all morning on our final climb up to Easy Pass, once again resulting in limited views. A little bit of a bummer, but on the plus side, the moisture made the colors pop a little more, ... and I'm not sure you can truly say you did a backpacking trip in the PNW if there wasn't ANY rain involved!
After arriving at Easy Pass TH, we contemplated adding on a day hike to Blue Lake, but it was still stormy and we were wet and hungry, so we opted instead to drive back through the park. We made one final stop at the Diablo Lake overlook, and by then, the sun had come out, resulting in the best views of the iconic lake with its dazzling turquoise colors.
We stopped at the Visitor Center, as well as at the BCO, where we donated our unused bear spray, before grabbing some delicious burgers in Concrete, WA at Cascade Burgers (highly recommend).
An overnight in an Airbnb in Seattle, and it was back to regular life, after a fantastic trip. I plan to be back for more adventures in the North Cascades! |
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Route Editor
Route Scout
Evidence of the char continued all the way until about a mile from Charlebois.
Route 
I marked the loss spot on my route, so let me know if you find it on your next paddle! 
So, it took us awhile longer than it should have to navigate. All good though.
