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| Backpack | 175.00 Miles |
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| | Backpack | 175.00 Miles | 8 Days | | |
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| no partners | | I'm continuing my project of trying to section hike the AZT. Much of Passages 42 and 43 (From UT to Jacob Lake) are closed due to fire activity, so I'm leaving those final two passages for the spring/summer of 2021. This report will be succinct.
Day 1. Light day with a late start and early camp. There is substantial historical fire damage (I'm not educated enough to know how much of the damage was from clear cutting). I was just glad to be on the trail.
Day 2. Made a big push to complete Passage #41 and #40, camping about 1/2 mile from the park boundary. It was one of my top ten favorite days hiking. After leaving behind burn/clear cut, I got to enjoy fall color, lovely forest, meadows, etc. Although I may have just hit it at the right time of year, Passage #40 is easily one my of favorite AZT Passages.
Day 3. Woke up to a frozen water bottle and proceeded into Passage #39 (GCNP North Rim). After kicking around the North Rim for a bit, I hiked down to Cottonwood Campground. Hiking Rim to Rim in the past, I'd never thought much of the campground. How wrong I was! Tastefully located with excellent spacing between sites, I'm looking forward to going back.
Day 4. Had an alpine start to avoid too warm a hike up the South Kaibab trail, given that it's so sun exposed beginning at the Tonto. I was sad to miss as much of the Canyon interior as I did, but I'd gotten my fill a few weeks before, and wanted to make sure I was safe. After a successful resupply at the very friendly post office, I walked into Tusayan for a late lunch. The trail to Tusayan is on a bike path and is no fun at all. After some beer and vittles, I hiked out of Tusayan a few miles before collapsing.
Day 5. AZT #36 is just too pretty. I hadn't registered how many GC views it provides. The Grandview Tower was well worth the stop (along with cached water). I tuckered out near Moqui Stage Station, wanting to get some rest before a big push across Babbitt Ranch.
Day 6. AZT #35 was a study in contrasts. The ATA appears to have completed some amazing re-routes that have eliminated historical road walks (only a few miles of road remain). They did a great job - the trail is very well done. But Passage 35 is still exposed and dry as all get out. I spent most of it hiding under my umbrella and mumbling. Were it not for Tub Ranch, where there is a critical water source, I think I'd have cried. I also fell in love with the local dog. After a brief road walk out to the Coconino NF boundary, I crashed, glad the day was over. Beautiful trail, but that's tough country to love.
Day 7. AZT #34 is famous, and rightly so. The San Francisco Peaks are a real treat. I could hike that Passage over and over. If you were in the area and saw some strange dude hugging a pine tree, it wasn't me. I swear. I crashed out a few miles past Alfa Fia tank (is a tank really a tank without cow dung all over?). Alfa Fia itself was crowded with hikers out to see the sunset. The energy was great.
Day 8. I've got lots of love for the ATA and there are major limits on where trail can be sited, but I am not a fan of the Flagstaff urban bypass route. The first stretch you're in significant competition with mountain bikers who really really really want you to get out of the way. The second stretch, there's a fair bit of uphill, which was a bit of a bummer given that all I had on my mind was a shower, pizza and beer. But I finally got my whiney self to a motel, where I accomplished all three. To glorious excess.
As a parting note, the trip would not have been nearly as fun were it not for the dedicated ATA volunteers who provided water caches at critical points along the trail. Manna from heaven. Interestingly, during my week on trail, I only encountered three NOBO and no SOBO backpackers (other than within the GC), so the SOBO flow was not substantial enough for me to overtake/be overtaken by anyone else. Not sure if that's par for the course or whether COVID and fires have done their number on trail volumes.
I'm looking forward to Passages 42 and 43 next year and really hope that in the next ~6-7 years I'm able to find time to do the whole trail as a thru-hike. Thank you ATA! |
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